Lavender is a Mediterranean herb that is very easy to propagate from a cutting. Here we look through the best practices and most effective steps to ensure a high success rate with your propagated cuttings.

I have personally propagated lavender many times as it is my favorite plant, and I have learned from my experience the best formula and the things to avoid.

The best way to propagate lavender is from a cutting in soil. This method has a far higher success rate than growing lavender from seed or growing cuttings in water.

Lavender is very difficult to grow from seed outside of its natural habitat as it requires a specific sequence of temperatures and environmental conditions that replicate those of their Mediterranean environment.

Growing lavender in water also has a much lower success rate, in my experience, as it is inherently at odds with the preferred growing conditions of lavender.

All lavender species are native to the Mediterranean (including ‘English lavender’) and are well adapted to tolerating hot and dry conditions. Lavender cuttings grown in water almost always suffer root rot and die back before growing.

Even if the lavender develops roots when propagated in water, the roots are often far more delicate than the roots off cuttings grown in soil, and I find the cutting often dies when the roots are damaged from transplanting it from water to soil.

The Best Time of Year to Propagate Lavender From Cuttings

The best time of year to take cuttings for propagation is in the early Spring. The temperature in Spring is cooler, which means that whilst your cutting is in a vulnerable state, it does not have to contend with the hot and dry extremes of Summer, which can cause it to dry out and die back before the roots develop.

An early Spring lavender cutting has more time to grow roots to sustain itself with water and nutrients before the high Summer temperatures and blazing sunshine.

May and June are usually the best months for taking cuttings for propagation as the threat of frost has usually passed, the temperatures are in the optimal range of being not too hot for the cuttings to dry up and not too cold that they die back due to cold stress.

With that said, I have personally propagated lavender in the Summer and early Fall. In the early Fall, the soil has had all year to warm up, which is good for root development.

Lavender cuttings taken in the early Fall can still have an impressive success rate as long as you provide some form of protection in the Winter if you are in a climate that experiences freezing temperatures.

Summer cuttings can also grow successfully, but there is a greater emphasis on providing a temporary humid environment to prevent the cuttings from drying up. Additional shade at the hottest times of the day is also necessary.

You can even take cuttings of flowering growth if that is your only option (I have done this successfully many times), but it is important to cut the flower off as the flower would require energy, nutrients, and moisture, all of which are needed for the cutting to develop roots to survive.

Taking cuttings in the Winter is not recommended as the lavender is in a dormant phase, therefore the cuttings would grow roots too slowly to have any real propagation success.

How Long Do Propagated Lavender Cuttings Take to Root?

Lavender cuttings typically take 3 to 6 weeks or more to develop roots, but it depends on the time of year.

If the soil is warm and the lavender cutting does not have to contend with any additional stress, such as high temperatures or harsh sunlight, then I usually find my cuttings take 3 weeks to develop a good root system.

Whereas in cooler conditions, I usually see the cuttings take around 6 weeks to root.

You can tell when the lavender has developed roots when growing in soil when it starts to produce new growth, whether it be a longer stem, more leaves, or even flowers developing.

New growth is a reliable indicator that the lavender has developed roots that are capable of up-taking the moisture and nutrients that are required for the plant to grow successfully.

Do I Need to Use Hormone Rooting Powder to Grow Lavender Cuttings?

It is not necessary to use hormone-rooting powder for lavender cuttings to grow successfully. Lavender is still able to grow and develop roots just by planting them directly in the soil.

However, in my experience, hormone-rooting powder does increase the success rate for growing cuttings successfully.

I have personally conducted several small experiments over the years to see whether hormone-rooting powder really does make a difference.

My experiments with hormone rooting powder…

Every year I grow 10 cuttings with hormone rooting powder and 10 cuttings without. For the experiments, I always took the cuttings in early June and treated them in exactly the same way.

On average, of the 3 years I recorded my results, the cuttings with hormone rooting powder had a success rate of 7.6 out of 10, whereas the cuttings without the powder had an average success rate of 6 cuttings out of 10 growing successfully.

So the difference is not necessarily huge when averaged out, but what I found was that one year was, it was particularly hot at the time of taking the cuttings, and the cuttings with the hormone rooting powder were able to root quicker and therefore able to draw up moisture and more successfully contend with the hot Summer weather, whereas several of the other cuttings shriveled in the heat.

The cuttings with hormone rooting powder were able to grow roots more quickly, which stood the lavender plant in good standing to cope with Winter, and they actually displayed more flowers the following year as they had a head start over the cuttings without hormone rooting powder.

So, on that basis, I do recommend hormone rooting powder as it is relatively inexpensive, and I had good results.

The Best Soil For Propagating Lavender From Cuttings

It is absolutely imperative to use the right potting mix for propagating lavender cuttings, as lavender is very susceptible to root rot if planted in the wrong soil type.

In the native Mediterranean habitat, lavender grows in gritty or relatively sandy soil, which has good drainage and low nutrients.

It is important to emulate these conditions for your lavender cuttings to prevent the risk of root rot. If you plant lavender in damp, water-retaining compost, it is likely they all die back without growing properly.

To mimic the lavender’s preferred soil type, you should use around 30% horticultural sand or grit with 70% peat free compost.

This achieves the optimal balance of drainage and soil structure to facilitate the growth of the cutting.

I must caution against using any compost that has added fertilizer as lavender prefers poor soil, as excess fertilizer causes the lavender to grow weaker foliage (that is more susceptible to cold weather)at the expense of flowers.

Step 1 of Propagating Lavender – Choose the Right Pot and Potting Mix

Find a pot with a drainage hole in the base and fill it with at least 30% sand or grit and around 70% compost.

Here is a photo of my favorite pot to use for propagation. It is terracotta which is a porous material so the soil can dry out more evenly (whereas plastic pots are impermeable and can retain too much moisture).

I personally am using horticultural sand in my photos (available online and from garden centers). Horticultural sand has a larger particle size than normal sand for improved drainage and aeration.

Important tip: Water the potting soil prior to placing the cuttings in the soil so that the soil is evenly moist. Watering beforehand ensures the cuttings do not get washed out of place.

Step 2 – Choosing the Best Cuttings For Propagation

If possible select a lavender stem without flowers, but if it is all in flower, then no problem, select some healthy growth that is semi-ripe and cut off the flower so the cutting can direct its energy to grow roots.

‘Semi ripe’ in this context just means selecting a stem that is roughly a month or so old with the top of the growth being greener and more flexible whereas lower down, the cutting has hardened off slightly and is more firm.

Cut a length of lavender that is around 6 inches long with a sharp pair of pruners.

With sharp pruners, you need to snip back any leaves that are in the bottom half of the cutting. The more leaves it has, the more moisture it will lose, so removing the lower leaves whilst the cutting still has no roots increases its longevity and reduces the risk of drought stress.

It is, of course, important to leave some leaves on the cutting, which provides the cutting with energy to grow the roots.

It is worth noting that the roots actually develop at the leaf node, so by removing the bottom leaves, the cutting has more nodes from which to grow roots. The leaf node is adaptable and capable of growing roots once it is in the soil.

Step 3 – Cover the Lower Portion of the Cuttings With Hormone Rooting Powder

Once you have stripped the lower portion of the cutting of leaves, dip it into the hormone-rooting powder pot (if you have it), coating the bottom 2 inches or so of the cutting with powder.

The potting mix should be sufficiently light in texture that you can slot the bottom of your cutting into the soil at the edge of the pot.

The reason I recommend placing the cutting at the edge of the pot is because the side of the pot provides additional support to prevent the cutting from falling out of place.

Space your cuttings at least 3 inches apart to give each one enough space so it can access light.

Step 4 – I Recommend Taking At least 10 Cuttings

This is one of the biggest hacks for successfully propagating lavender…

Be generous with the amount of cuttings you use when propagating. One of the most common reasons why lavender cuttings die is because the soil holds too much moisture for this drought-tolerant Mediterranean herb to tolerate.

My best tip: From my experiments, I have found, If there are many cuttings in the soil, then they all draw up moisture, which means overall, the compost does not stay damp for as long after watering, which helps achieve the right balance of moisture for them to grow successfully and avoid root rot.

As lavender is drought resistant, root rot from damp, boggy soil is often a bigger threat to the cutting’s survival than suffering from drought.

If you only have 1 or 2 cuttings in the whole pot, then the compost dries out more slowly, which increases the risk of root rot.

I always recommend taking more cuttings to help spread the risk because some of them are likely to root even if you lose a few.

Step 5 – Use a Clear Plastic Bag to Prevent the Cuttings Drying out

Place a clear plastic bag over the top of the cuttings to help conserve moisture.

Whilst lavender does not like moisture as such when it has just been cut, you are essentially cutting off its means to uptake water, so it is at some risk of dying from drought.

The plastic bag over the top creates a slightly more humid microclimate to stop the cuttings from immediately drying out.

If the weather is overcast with cooler temperatures, then the threat of the cuttings drying out is not as severe, and I recommend temporarily removing the transparent bag to avoid root rot and then placing the bag back over the pot when the weather is hot, dry, and sunny.

By reactively taking the transparent bag on and off according to the conditions, you can achieve the delicate balance of ensuring the cuttings have enough moisture for immediate survival without being too damp and developing root rot.

Step 6 – Where to Locate Your Lavender Cuttings

I locate the lavender cuttings in bright indirect light for the first 3 weeks or so until I start to see new growth.

Once new growth appears on your cutting, then this is a sign that it has definitely developed roots, at which point I relocate my lavender pot to an area of morning sun and protect the cuttings from the sun and midday heat in the afternoon.

The morning sun is less intense, and the temperature is cooler, which provides the cuttings with energy to photosynthesize and further develop their root system.

Afternoon sun is more intense, and the temperature is usually hotter, which can risk drying out the cuttings.

Step 7 – How to Water the Cuttings

The soil must be evenly moist after watering and then dry slightly before watering again. How often you specifically need to water depends on several factors, such as temperatures, sun intensity, and how well the potting soil retains moisture.

Therefore I find the best way to tell if it needs watering is by feeling the weight of the pot immediately after watering and then picking it up periodically to assess the weight as the soil dries. As soon as it feels noticeably lighter, it is a good idea to water the cuttings.

I personally also leave a little bit of space in the propagation pot to feel the soil to a finger depth so I can feel how moist the soil is to get the best idea of when to water.

Important tip: I always use a rosette on my watering can that pours in a very fine, delicate stream, as a big watering can without a rosette is likely to wash the soil away from your cuttings and ruin the propagation process.

For more information, read my article, How to Water Lavender in Hot Weather.

Troubleshooting Lavender Propagation Problems

Are your cuttings starting to wilt? Should you be concerned? If your cuttings are wilting then give the soil water and place a bag over the top to temporarily increase the humidity. Some wilting is normal and to be expected on cuttings without developed roots. (Mine always wilt temporarily if the temperature is high).

Assess whether the wilting is due to lack of moisture (if the soil is moist and you are using a bag for humidity, then you are likely okay) or whether it can be attributed to high temperatures and blazing sunshine, in which case provide some shade to alleviate the stress.

Keep in mind that too much water in the soil can also cause a drooping appearance, so if the cuttings are drooping despite the soil being well watered, then try to ensure the soil stays evenly moist rather than boggy and move the cuttings to the shade if they are in the sun, and the temperature is relatively high.

If some cuttings are dying, that is also to be expected. A 100% rate of propagation, whilst possible, is difficult to achieve even if you follow all the best practices. (Trust me, I have tried!)

You should remove any cuttings that have died to prevent them from rotting and causing problems for your remaining cuttings.

How to Care for Propagated Lavender

The lavender cutting should develop its roots within 3-6 weeks, at which point a plastic bag is no longer necessary to retain humidity and is likely to do more harm than good once the plant is established.

The rooted cuttings are far less vulnerable to drought stress, but it is still worth watering them once a week to ensure they do not dry out.

In my experience, it is best to keep the lavender in the pot it has been propagated in for the first year to allow the roots to develop as much as possible without being disturbed.

If you live in a climate that experiences frost, then it is best to keep your propagated lavender in either a cold frame (which is like a mini greenhouse) or a greenhouse to protect it from frost, as immature lavender is more vulnerable to cold stress.

Sometimes propagated lavender actually produces flowers even in its first year of propagation, particularly if you take your cuttings in the early Spring.

My advice is to actually snip any developing flower buds off if your cutting has been propagated that year, as this helps to redirect the lavender’s energy to growing roots and establishing properly rather than the energy-intensive process of displaying flowers. (I know this can seem like a shame!).

Your lavender will look much better and be far more hardy the following year, I promise!

In the following Spring, you can transplant your propagated lavender to its own pot (ensuring the soil is a mix of sand/grit and compost), and you should see flowers that year.

Of course, the usual advice for lavender care applies, with lavender preferring full sun to produce the strongest fragrance, gritty soil with good drainage, and only watering in times of drought.

Do not add any fertilizer to lavender, as it has specifically adapted to growing in gritty soils with low fertility and good drainage. If you add fertilizer, this can promote foliage growth at the expense of flowers and decrease the concentration of the essential oils that are responsible for their divine aroma.

For more information on caring for lavender once it has matured, read my article, How to Care for Lavender in Pots.

In this article, I share with you my own knowledge and the best tips and tricks I have learned from specialist lavender growers to ensure your potted lavender thrives…

Plant lavender in pots with a well-draining, gritty potting mix of 70% compost and 30% horticultural sand or grit. Grow lavender in a pot 12 inches across in full sun, and water thoroughly every 14 days so that excess water trickles from the base of the pot.

For those of you who want the 2 minute low down of lavender care I have summarized the main points in the following table:

Please keep reading for how to grow lavenders in pots and containers to produce the strongest fragrance and the most flowers and learn my best practices of care to ensure your lavender survives Winter…

Choosing a Lavender for Pots and Containers

All lavender plants grow well in pots and containers due to the favorable drainage conditions. However, from experience, some lavender cultivars are more suited to growing in pots than others.

My personal favorite lavender that I recommend for growing in pots is the English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia):

• ‘Hidcote’
• ‘Munstead’

Both of these lavenders are English lavenders which means they can tolerate colder weather (cold hardy to USDA zone 5) and therefore the pot can be left outdoors all year.

Hidcote and Munstead lavender also have the finest fragrance of all the lavenders and display beautiful flowers in the middle of Summer (mine usually appear in June and July).

My Munstead lavender also stays relatively compact at around 12 inches (with annual pruning) and, therefore, grows to a size that works great in pots without having to re-pot them too often, as can happen with the larger varieties of lavender (such as ‘Vera’), which can grow 3 feet across and is, therefore, more suited to growing in garden borders.

Other great choices for pots are most varieties of French and Spanish lavenders with popular varieties such as:

• ‘Bandera pink‘
• ‘Anouk’

These lavenders stay a good size that does not overwhelm a pot and produce flowers for up to 3 months in the right conditions. The fragrance, however, in my experience, is less pronounced than the English lavender varieties. But while it is more subtle, I still think it smells lovely!

It should be noted that they are not as cold and hardy as English lavenders, and the pots should be taken indoors for winter protection as they can die in a heavy frost.

I have done some experiments to see how long each lavender lasts (as lavenders are not the longest lived plants). My English lavender typically live for up to 15 years or more with good care, whereas my French lavender often dies after 5 years, even with optimal conditions.

(Read my article, when and how long does lavender bloom?)

Best Pots and Containers for Growing Lavender

I have tested all sorts of pots for growing lavender over the years and I have concluded that the best pots for growing lavender are ceramic, clay, or terracotta pots as they do not conduct as much heat as plastic and metal pots and tend to be a bit thicker which helps to resist frost damage in Winter.

Ceramic, clay, and terracotta are also porous which dries the soil evenly to avoid root rot.

As we discussed, lavenders are Mediterranean herbs that grow in gritty, well-draining soils and require the soil to dry out between bouts of watering.

The clay, ceramic and terracotta pots are able to dry the soil more evenly thanks to their more porous stricture yet also do not heat up as quickly in full sun.

For those of you in cold climates I also discovered that they can also protect the lavender’s cold sensitive roots more in colder weather which is important as many lavender varieties do not tolerate freezing temperatures. My lavender in cermic pots cope much better then plastic pots during Winter!

I recommend choosing a pot or container for your lavender that is around 12 inches across with the same proportional depth.

A pot this size has the capacity for enough soil, which acts as insulation from frost for the cold-sensitive roots and also allows the roots enough room to develop properly to access nutrients and moisture.

As soon as I switched up to using larger pots, the lavender’s survival rate increased significantly.

Always ensure the pot or container has drainage holes in the base to allow excess water to escape after watering to prevent root rot.

If your potted lavender is on a patio, then I recommend placing the pot on ‘feet’ (stone or bricks) to elevate an inch or so off the ground, which ensures water can escape freely from the bottom of the pot without pooling underneath.

I do this because once my lavender pot sat directly on a paving slab, and water did not escape people from the bottom of the pot, which caused root rot.

Note lavender should be grown in full sun, and if the pot is significantly smaller than 12 inches across, then a smaller pot with less soil is going to heat up and dry out too quickly for even the drought-tolerant lavender’s roots to draw up any moisture.

(Read my article, choosing the best pot for lavender, for examples).

How To Water Lavender in Pots

I advise you to water your lavender with a really generous soak so that excess water trickles from the drainage holes and out the pot’s base. This encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil to access the moisture which increases the lavender’s resistance to drought.

Please do not water lavender too lightly (I see many beginner gardeners make this mistake). If you water lavender too lightly, only the top inch or so of the potting soil becomes moist, which causes the roots to grow near the surface and can increase lavender’s vulnerability to drought stress.

Water with a good soak so that water emerges from the holes in the pot’s base ensures the soil is evenly moist so that the roots can access the moisture they require.

Pro tip: Always water the at the soil level rather than overhead watering. If you water overhead this can create a humid micro-climate around the foliage which increases the risk of fungal disease which turns the foliage gray.

How Often to Water Lavender in Pots

How often should you water your lavender?

I water established lavenders in pots and containers every 2 weeks in the Spring and Summer with a thorough watering. My established potted lavender does not need any additional watering in Fall and Winter. Water newly planted potted lavenders every week for the first year after planting.

Lavenders are drought-resistant herbs that have adapted to Europe’s hot and dry Mediterranean region. Therefore, they do not require watering as often as most potted plants, and they actually thrive in the hottest, driest months of the year.

Pro tip: Watering with a really good soak and then allowing the soil to dry out over 2 weeks replicates the typical cycle of rainfall followed by a period of drought that lavenders typically experience in their native environment.

If there has been significant rainfall or many overcast days, then I just recommend that you delayed until the soil has dried.

Lavenders (as with all Mediterranean herbs) are very sensitive to overwatering, so If you water potted lavender too frequently then this promotes the conditions for root rot which turns the lavender brown, causing it to wilt and die back.

Therefore if in doubt about whether to water your potted lavender, delay watering for a few days until you are sure the soil has had a chance to dry out.

Pro tip: In my experience, if you plant lavender in terracotta or clay pots and amend the soil with grit, then you do not have to worry as much about overwatering!

(Read my article, how often to water lavender for the complete guide).

Watering Newly Planted Lavenders

The only time your lavender is vulnerable to drought is when it is newly planted, as the roots need some time to establish and uptake moisture more effectively.

Therefore, I always recommend planting lavenders in pots in the Spring as the lavender has some time for their roots to establish before the more intense Summer sun and heat; however, they can be successfully planted at any time during the Spring and Summer.

Water newly planted lavenders with a really good soak once per week throughout Spring and Summer up and into Fall. Watering newly planted lavenders with a good soak once per week promotes the development of the lavender roots so they can become more resistant to drought as they mature.

It is worth emphasizing the importance of planting lavender in pots that measure 12 inches across and preferably a clay, ceramic, or terracotta pot as smaller pots can dry out too quickly for a newly planted lavender, and the clay, ceramic, or terracotta materials dry out evenly due to their porous structure which helps to achieve the optimal balance of moisture for potted lavenders to thrive.

Do not fear if you have to pot up your lavender in spring, Summer, or early Fall, as I have successfully potted up at different times of the year. But if you are planting lavender in pots in Summer water more frequently in intense sunlight and high temperatures.

Potting Soil for Lavenders in Pots and Containers

I have experimented and tested through trial and error and I can tell you with certainty that the best potting soil for lavenders is a mix of 70% compost and 30% horticultural sand or grit.

This balance of compost and sand replicates the gritty soil conditions of the lavender’s native environment and porous, light, aerated soil structure that allows for good drainage and efficient root respiration.

Lavenders are native to countries such as Spain, France, and Italy where they grow in soils with a high inorganic content with a lot of grit and organic matter.

The most important characteristic of lavender potting soil is to allow for good drainage around the lavender roots as damp soil promotes the conditions for fungal disease pathogens such as root rot which is the most common reason for lavender dying.

Pots naturally have more favorable drainage conditions than the soil in garden borders, so they are a great way to grow lavenders. However, in climates of higher rainfall or higher humidity the faster the drainage the better.

I know lavender grows in the Pacific NorthWest of the US (where it is very rainy!) that use as much as 50% compost and 50% horticultural sand to counteract the affects of more rainfall which can cause the soil to be too damp for lavender to tolerate. Simply mix the compost and the sand in the pot together until it is evenly distributed.

Watch the video I created, which shows how to create the perfect potting mix for lavenders:

Too much grit is always better than not enough, so I’m always generous when creating my lavender potting soil mix.

Lavenders also require medium to low fertility soil as nutrient-dense soils cause lavenders to grow lots of foliage without any flowers.

Too many nutrients (particularly nitrogen) also decrease the concentration of essential oils in the leaves, which reduces the strength of the lavender’s distinctive aroma, which is not what we want!

I know it may seem strange but, lavender has specifically adapted to grow in poor soils and actually thrive in these conditions.

The sand or horticultural grit in the potting mix does not contribute much nutrients to the soil, which balances out the compost to recreate the lower fertility soil conditions of the lavender’s native environment where they thrive.

(Read my article on how to revive a dying lavender plant).

Locate Potted Lavender in 6 hours of Sun

Position your potted lavender in an area with full sun. We need to remember that our lavenders have specifically adapted to growing in 6 hours or more of intense sun in the Mediterranean. The more sun a lavender receives, the stronger the aroma from the leaves. Lavenders do not grow well in the shade.

Lavender grows in open areas and tolerates blazing sunshine in the South of France which is where most commercial lavender is grown.

Commercial lavender growers tell me that lavender smells the strongest and flowers the most in sunny conditions, with the hottest and driest years yielding the highest concentration of essential oils for the commercial lavender industry. (I went to the South of France in mid-summer, and the smell of lavender was completely overwhelming!)

If the lavender is in too much shade, then it tends to grow leggy with fewer flowers and less fragrance. Find the sunniest area of your garden or patio to locate your potted lavender.

(Read my article, why lavender isn’t flowering?)

Does Potted Lavender Require Fertilizer?

No lavender does not need any fertilizer. Lavenders have adapted to growing in soils with a high sand or grit content that is relatively low in fertility, and they thrive in these conditions.

Additional fertilizer is contrary to the preferred conditions to which the lavender has adapted and is likely to harm your lavender.

If you add fertilizer to your lavenders, the lavender displays fewer flowers, and the concentration of essential oils in the leaves (which is responsible for the aroma) is much lower.

Lavender also grows droopy and is much more vulnerable to pests and disease when there is excess nitrogen in the soil. (This could be due to high nitrogen soil conditions, so I’d avoid using a manure-based mulch).

To get the best out of your potted lavender, recreate the lower fertility conditions of its native Mediterranean range by using a potting mix that is at least 30% horticultural sand or grit to promote flowering, and avoid using any fertilizer as this can harm your lavender.

Pruning Lavender in Pots

Our lavenders of all varieties require annual pruning to increase longevity and prevent a leggy appearance. I always prune the top third of the lavender’s growth in early Spring or Fall. You need to aim for a rounded, compact shape to help resist weather better and ensure the lavender flowers are displayed evenly.

Lavender only displays flowers on new growth, which is why I personally recommend pruning your lavender in early Spring, usually in March or April.

Pruning in spring helps to stimulate lots of new growth, which can result in more flowers being displayed.

Pro tip: I have personally experimented with pruning in the Spring and Fall and I have universally seen more flowers on the lavender I prune in the Spring thanks to all the new growth as well as a stronger fragrance.

Prune the top third of the lavender growth every year to prevent the lavender from becoming leggy, as once it is leggy and out of control, it displays fewer flowers and does not live as long.

Avoid pruning into the older woody part of the lavender nearer the base, as this older wood does not grow back.

If you are unsure, I recommend that you watch this YouTube video for a visual guide on pruning potted lavenders:

If you do not prune lavenders annually, they grow leggy with fewer flowers and do not live as long.

If your lavender gets too leggy, then I recommend propagating it through cuttings. Propagation is an easy, free way of growing more lavender plants. Read my step-by-step article on how to propagate lavender from cuttings.

My Tips for How to Increase Lavender Flowers

To increase the number of lavender flowers, plant lavender in a low-fertility, well-draining, gritty potting mix and place it in an area with as much sun as possible. Lavender flowers on new growth, so prune lavender at the start of Spring to encourage new growth, which displays more flowers.

Every commercial grower I spoke to in the South of France told me that lavender flowers are the most fragrant and exude the strongest fragrance in the hottest, sunniest, and driest years in the native Mediterranean range.

Whilst you do not need a Mediterranean climate to grow lavenders that display lots of blooms we need to emulate their ideal conditions.

• Place your potted lavender in the sunniest spot in your garden. Lavenders prefer at least 6 hours of sun or more for the best growth, fragrance, and flowers.
• Plant lavenders in the recommended gritty potting mix (at least 30% sand or grit by volume). This balances the fertility of the compost to mimic the typical soil fertility of the lavender’s native range which promotes flowering. If the potting mix has been enriched with nutrients the lavender grows fewer flowers and the essential oils (which are responsible for the fragrance) are less concentrated so the lavender does not smell as strong.
• Prune lavender in the Spring. Lavender blooms on new growth and pruning at the start of spring stimulates lots of new growth which increases flowering.

Lavender flowers grow more in years of higher temperatures and more sunlight, which I realize is beyond our control as gardeners!

However, a great tip that I picked up from commercial lavender growers is to use a white stone mulch around your lavender or place it in an area of your garden that reflects a lot of light (such as a patio with light-colored slabs).

This reflects more light onto your lavender, increasing the brightness and increasing flowering and aroma. More light and heat also help to increase evaporation from around the foliage which reduces the risk of fungal disease.

(For more tips on blooming, read my article, on how to increase lavender blooms).

When does Lavender Flower?

English lavender flowers in mid-June and with elegant blue flowers that last for about a month or so.

Whilst English Lavender does not bloom for as long as French lavenders, they are much more cold hardy, live for 15 years or more, have a finer fragrance, and popular varieties such as ‘Hidcote‘ and ‘Munstead‘ stay a more compact size making them ideal for pots and containers.

My French lavender flowers last much longer and can flower for 3 months in a Mediterranean climate, but the fragrance is less strong although I still think it smells very sweet.

Hybrid lavenders such as ‘Grosso‘ can flower for around 2 months starting in June or July and exude a strong fragrance although they tend to grow rather large so may need repotting more often.

When I visit lavender farms, Grosso is very commonly grown as it smells strong, but if I had to be honest, the fragrance of lavender grosso is fewer plants than, say, lavender instead. The reason the grow grosso commercially is because the yield of oil is much higher per plant, so they make more money.

Potted Lavender Care in Winter

How you care for your potted lavender in winter depends more on the specific species of lavender due to variability in their tolerance for cold conditions.

English lavenders can be left outdoors in Winter in a sunny location and can survive in freezing temperatures if they are in a well-draining potting mix. French lavenders do not tolerate frost and freezing temperatures, and the pot should be brought indoors before the first frost of Winter.

English lavenders and some hybrid lavenders, such as ‘Grosso,’ are the only lavender varieties that can really tolerate cold and snow as long as the soil is well-draining.

However, it is still important that you prune your potted lavenders annually as a leggy lavender has a greater tendency to break up or become damaged under the weight of snow whereas compact lavenders resist weather much better.

Do not water your lavender during Winter, as this is the time at which lavender is at the highest risk of root rot, which is prevalent in cold, damp soils.

This highlights the importance of good drainage with a good gritty potting mix to allow excess moisture to drain away from the roots efficiently.

If you are in a particularly cold climate, plant lavenders in larger pots or containers is often better as larger pots have a greater capacity for soil which acts as insulate for the cold sensitive roots in the Winter and increase the survival rate of lavenders.

In cold climates, bring your potted French lavenders indoors over Winter and place them in a sunny Window.

Ideally, they should be located in a heated greenhouse that maintains a temperature above freezing so that the lavender can benefit from as much light as possible.

Water indoor lavender once every 4-6 weeks with a thorough watering during Winter to sustain the lavender until Spring.

Personally, I recommend growing English lavenders in pots in cold climates as they are much easier to maintain, particularly if you do not have the space to bring pots indoors in Winter.

(For all the best practices, read my article on caring for lavender over Winter. I also have a specific article on caring for French lavenders, which require more care and attention over winter than other lavenders).

Key Takeaways:

• Lavender ‘Hidcote‘ and ‘Munstead‘ are the best lavender varieties for growing in pots. They are cold, hardy, and can be left outdoors all Winter. They produce lots of fragrant flowers and stay a compact size proportional to the pot or containers.
• Ceramic, clay, and terracotta pots are the best for lavenders as they are porous, letting the soil dry out evenly. Choose a pot that is at least 12 inches across to ensure the pot has the capacity for enough soil to insulate the lavender roots in Winter.
• Lavender is a drought-resistant herb that should only be watered when the soil has dried out around the roots. Water lavender thoroughly so that excess water trickles from the pot’s base, then wait for the soil to dry before watering again.
• Water newly planted lavender once a week for the first year to promote good root development, then once every two weeks after a year once it has established. Do not water outdoor potted lavender in the fall or winter as it attains all the moisture it requires from the environment.
• Plant lavender in a potting mix of 70% compost and 30% horticultural grit or sand. The gritty potting mix ensures the soil has a porous, aerated structure that allows for good drainage and emulates the lower fertility soil conditions of the lavender native environment.
• Place potted lavender in an area of full sun (at least 6 hours or more). The more sun your lavender receives, the more flowers it displays, and the stronger the fragrance from the foliage. Lavender do not grow well in the shade.
• Potted lavender does not require any fertilizer. Lavenders are adapted to gritty, low-fertility soil in their native Mediterranean environment in which they thrive. Fertilizer causes lavender to display fewer flowers, decreases the fragrance, and grows droopy.
• Prune lavender in either the early Spring or late Fall after flowering. Prune lavender annually to prevent a leggy appearance and to increase longevity. Prune back the top 1/3 of the lavender growth into a compact, rounded shape to promote flowering.
• English lavender flowers in June/July, and the blooms last for around 1 month. French Lavenders bloom in May and can last around 3 months in optimal conditions. English lavenders have a more pronounced aroma than French Lavenders
• English lavenders are cold-hardy and can be kept outdoors in pots all year, whereas French lavender is cold-sensitive and dies back due to frost and freezing temperatures. Bring French lavender indoors before Winter. Do not water outdoor lavenders in Winter, but water indoor lavenders once every 4-6 weeks.

Lavender ‘Provence’ has a fragrance and oil that is highly regarded and grown commercially. It makes a great addition to gardens with full sun and thrives on neglect.

Keep reading as there are a few growing preferences and best practices to grow lavender ‘Provence’ so that it exudes a strong aroma from the foliage and displays the most flowers…

Where will Lavender ‘Provence’ Grow?

Lavender ‘Provence’ is a hybrid species that is named after the famous Provence region of France where lavender is grown commercially on a spectacular scale.

Whilst the lavender is named after an area of France it is not actually a species of French lavender but rather a hybrid of English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and Portuguese lavender (Lavandula latifolia).

Therefore ‘Provence’ has the cold hardy characteristics of an English lavender (as well as the well-regarded aroma) and the longer flowering season of the Portuguese lavender.

This means that ‘Provence’ is a highly adaptable variety that can grow in many different climates and still display flowers and exude a sweet aroma.

Lavender ‘Provence’ can live in colder, temperate climates such as Washington, Oregon, as well as the UK that experience freezing temperatures in Winter as well as snow and ice and live for many years (hardy in USDA zones 5-9).

However owing to their Portuguese heritage they can also grow in arid climates with high temperatures, infrequent rainfall, and mild Winters.

Lavender ‘Provence’ can even tolerate some humidity which is unusual for lavenders.

All lavenders require well-draining soil and infrequent watering, but in colder climates with higher rainfall or higher humidity, well-draining soil is particularly crucial for growing ‘Provence’.

All lavenders require full sun as this increases blooms and the strength of fragrance and they do not grow well in the shade.

When Does Lavender ‘Provence’ Bloom?

Lavender ‘Provence’ typically starts blooming in June which is similar to English Lavenders. However ‘Provence’ will bloom for much longer than the English lavenders (if deadheaded regularly).

With optimal growing and climate conditions, lavender ‘Provence’ can bloom into the Fall with several bouts of flowers.

This variety has been specifically cultivated for its oil and fragrance in the fields of France so it has a very pronounced aroma from the foliage and flowers which wafts through the garden on a Summer day.

What Size Does Lavender ‘Provence’ Grow to?

Lavender ‘Provence’ is a larger lavender variety that grows to a height of up to 36 inches and a width of 32 inches.

It usually takes around 2 or 3 years to grow to its full size. The size of ‘Provence’ does depend on growing conditions and climate, with those that are well cared for growing larger.

Lavender ‘Provence’ also grows larger in climates that are Mediterranean than colder climates however it still reaches a similar size of cared for and in full sun.

How to Care for Lavender ‘Provence’

Lavender ‘Provence’ is a hardy, highly adaptable variety that can grow in different climates.

However all lavender species originate in the Mediterranean region of Europe and whilst they do not necessarily require the high temperatures of Southern Europe, ‘Provence’ does require the same soil and watering conditions.

So to grow ‘Provence’ successfully in your garden you will need to replicate some of the conditions of the Mediterranean to keep the plant healthy and avoid problems such as root rot.

Soil Conditions

Lavender ‘Provence’ requires the following soil conditions to thrive:

• Well-draining sandy soil
• Low to medium nutrients
• Porous, friable soil texture
• Soil pH of between 6.5 to 8

In the South of Europe, lavender thrives in poor, sandy soils that are usually alkaline.

Lavenders have specifically adapted to these characteristics and ‘Provence’ will display the most flowers and stronger aromas in these conditions.

When planting ‘Provence’ amend the soil with around 1 third horticultural sand or grit and 2 thirds compost.

This will help to recreate the low to medium nutrient conditions that lavender prefers as well as increase the drainage.

Lavender does not tolerate consistently damp soils as this risks root rot or fungal disease hence the importance of well-draining soil.

The sand also allows for more oxygen in the soil for root respiration.

Do not plant ‘Provence’ in soil that is rich in nutrients or amended with manure (which is high in Nitrogen) or use additional fertilizer as this will encourage foliage growth at the expense of flowers and the fragrance will not be as pronounced.

Soils that are too rich cause lavenders to droop and high nitrogen levels can cause the leaves to turn yellow.

If your soil is slow draining and boggy or overly acidic then it is a good idea to plant ‘Provence’ in pots or containers as you have more control over the soil profile.

(For more information read my guide to creating the optimal soil mix for lavenders).

Very acidic soils can be amended with horticultural lime from the garden center which will increase the pH so that it is alkaline.

(For more information about measuring soil pH and growing lavenders with acidic soil, read my article on lavenders in acidic soil).

Watering

As lavender ‘Provence’ is cultivated for commercial use in the South of France it is important to mimic the watering conditions of this region.

• Established lavender requires very infrequent watering. Water once every 2 weeks in hot weather or if planting in pots. When planted in more temperate climates with higher rainfall ‘Provence’ often does not require any additional water.
• When newly planted, ‘Provence’ requires more frequent watering to avoid transplant shock whilst the roots are established. Water immediately after planting and water once every two or three days for the first week. A week after planting, water once every 3 or 4 days for the first month. After a month the roots are more established, so scale back the watering to once every two weeks.
• Do not water in Winter as this will promote the conditions that encourage root rot.

Always water ‘Provence’ with a generous soak as this encourages the roots to establish and the plant will be drought resistant.

Remember that lavender is a Mediterranean plant and there are far more problems caused by overwatering than underwatering.

Signs of an overwatered lavender are a drooping appearance and foliage that is turning brown, however, this can also be a result of slow-draining soils, in which case you should amend the soil with additional horticultural sand or grit to improve drainage.

If there has been significant rainfall or many overcast days then skip watering for another 2 weeks.

Pruning Lavender ‘Provence’

It is important to prune ‘Provence’ annually to increase the longevity of the lavender and prevent it from turning woody.

Annual pruning also encourages new stems to grow. Flowers are always displayed on new stems so the more you can encourage new growth the better the display of flowers.

Lavender ‘Provence’ can be pruned successfully in the early Spring or the Fall.

I personally prune ‘Provence’ in the Spring (usually around March or April) as this stimulates lots of new growth of stems before the flower season (which starts in June) and the lavender always displays lots of flowers.

However ‘Provence’ can display lots of flowers when pruned in the Fall so really it is up to you and what works best for your climate.

Always prune at least a third of the growth back and aim so that the lavender has a mound shape as this resists the effects of Winter weather (such as snow and ice).

Do not prune the lavender back to the woody base, as the old wood base is not very productive and does not grow many new stems.

For a great visual guide, watch this YouTube video for how to prune lavender:

How Far Apart to Plant

The planting distance for lavender Provence is important as ‘Provence’ is a larger lavender at full size.

Lavender ‘Provence’ should be planted 3 feet apart. This allows the lavender enough space for airflow (to reduce the risk of fungal disease) and so that the roots have enough room to establish in the soil without having to compete for water and nutrients.

A distance of 3 feet also ensures that each plant has enough light so that it can bloom its best with a strong aroma.

As hedges:

Lavender ‘Provence’ is a good choice for hedging as it can tolerate some humidity which can happen if there is a more humid microclimate because of a higher density of plants.

Lavender ‘Provence’ also has a good life span of around 15 years with good care and it is cold hardy so you do not have to replace frost or snow-damaged plants very often as with less hardy lavenders.

Plant each lavender around 2 feet apart to form a continuous hedge without any gaps. This may take up to 2 years for ‘Provence’ to grow to its full size for a uniform hedge.

In colder climates with a short growing season, I recommend that you plant each lavender ‘Provence’ around 18 inches apart as the full size usually depends on the growing conditions and how hot the climate is in the Summer.

(For more information read my article on spacing lavender for hedges).

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ is a hybrid of English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and Portuguese lavender (Lavandula latifolia) and retains the English lavender cold hardy characteristics and sweet fragrance with the Portuguese lavender longer blooms.

Plant Profile:

Where will Lavender Phenomenal Grow?

• Full sun
• Cold Hardy (tolerates snow, frost and ice in Winter) hardy in USDA zones 5-9.
• Tolerates heat and drought and can live in temperate climates with significant rainfall as long as the soil is very well draining.

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ is one of the most versatile lavender varieties in terms of where it can grow.

Lavender Phenomenal is a hybrid lavender that retains the cold hardy characteristics of the English lavenders but also has the longer flowering season of the Portuguese lavenders.

Not only can it thrive in both hot, arid regions (such as Southern Europe and California) as well as colder climates (such as Oregon, Washington and Northern Europe) but it is the only lavender variety that has some tolerance to humidity.

There is even a commercial lavender farm that grow lavender x intermedia in the humid climate of South Carolina which has one of the highest average levels of humidity in the United States (with some special adjustments to the growing conditions).

When does ‘Phenomenal’ Bloom?

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ blooms for several weeks in the mid-summer (usually in June) and can carry on blooming in to the Fall with the optimal climates and growing conditions.

Regular deadheading of the flowers throughout the summer, redirects the plants energy from developing seeds to displaying more blooms which extends the flowering time of lavender ‘Phenomenal’

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ fragrance is strongest and the flowering is most spectacular in the hottest and driest summers and when the lavender is planted in nutrient poor soils.

How to Care for Lavender ‘Phenomenal‘

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ is a hardy lavender variety that thrives on neglect.

Whilst it can thrive in a variety of climates there are some care requirements and best practices that you need to know to grow ‘Phenomenal’ so that it stays healthy, displays flowers and exudes its strong aroma…

Soil Conditions

One of the most important aspects of caring for ‘Phenomenal’ is to prepare the soil properly before planting.

Lavenders as a species originate from the Mediterranean coast where the soil is sandy, low in nutrients, well draining and somewhat alkaline.

To grow lavender ‘Phenomenal’ successfully in your garden it is important to recreate these soil conditions.

Well draining soil is imperative as lavender roots do not like to be in damp soil as this encourages fungal disease and root rot, therefore ‘Phenomenal’ does not grow well in clay soils, slow draining or boggy soils or soils that are rich in compost and retain moisture.

Plant the lavender in soil that has been amended with horticultural sand or grit with some ordinary multi purpose compost. Ensure that the compost is not enrich with fertilizer or moisture retaining agents.

This will help to mimic the well draining soil characteristics of the lavenders native environment and allow water to drain away from the roots quickly so that the plant stays healthy and there is less risk of root rot or fungal disease.

For more information of preparing soil for lavender read my article for the optimal soil mix for lavenders.

Soil nutrients:

Lavenders are plants that thrive in harsh conditions with sandy soils that do not retain much nutrients. Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ as with all lavenders is specifically adapated to growing to their best in terms of blooms and aromas in nutrient poor soils.

Therefore you should not add any fertilizer or add high nitrogen soil amendments such as manure. An excess of nitrogen will stimulate foliage growth with fewer flowers and the leaves may even turn yellow as a sign of stress.

When planting ‘Phenomenal’ add around 1 third sand to 2 thirds compost as this will balance the nutrient profile and create the lower fertility conditions that lavender require to grow and be healthy.

Soil pH:

Another characteristic of the lavenders native environment is that the soil is often slightly alkaline, although lavender ‘Phenomenal’ can tolerate mildly acidic soils of pH 6.5 (7 is pH neutral) to pH 8 (which is alkaline).

If your garden has plants that are thriving such as azaleas, rhodedndrums, camalias and roses then the soil is likely acidic which is not suitible for lavenders.

You can amend the soil by adding horticultural lime (used to amend acidic soils to an alkaline pH and is available from garden centers) to the planting area before planting or plant lavender in pots which is a great option as you have control over the soil profile and you don’t have to amend the garden soil.

Watering

Lavenders of all species are native to climates with blazing sunshine, hot weather arid conditions, with well draining soils and infrequent rainfall.

Therefore lavender ‘Phenomenal’ is a easy plant to maintain as it thrives on neglectful watering.

Far more problems are caused by over watering lavenders then under watering as lavender likes the soil to dry around the roots between bouts of watering and rainfall.

• Established lavender ‘Phenomenal’ only requires watering once every two weeks during the Spring and Summer in hot weather if there has been no significant rainfall. In temperate climates with overcast days and occasional rainfall, ‘Phenomenal’ often does not require any additional watering.
• Recently planted lavender requires more care and attention whilst the roots establish. Water after planting and water every 2 or 3 days for the first week. Scale back the watering to once every 3 or 4 days after the first week for the first month and then water once every two weeks until the Fall.
• Do not water ‘Phenomenal’ in Winter as it will attain all the moisture it requires from the environment. Watering during Winter whilst the lavender is in a state of dormancy will promote the conditions that encourage root rot and fungal disease.

Water with a generous soak to encourage the roots to establish in the soil to access the moisture and nutrients they require rather then a light watering which causes the roots to grow shallow.

(To learn more about how to water lavender in different conditions read my article how often to water lavender).

Over watered lavender tend to droop and the foliage may turn brown. If the is the case the plant is suffering with root root or another fungal disease.

Read my article for the solutions for lavenders with fungal disease.

If you water ‘Phenomenal’ infrequently and plant in well draing soil amended with sand, then the diseases that result from over watering should not be a significant problem and the plant should remain healthy.

When to Plant

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ is a hardy variety of lavender that can be planted at any time during the Spring, Summer or Fall although the best time is the Spring (around April or May).

Spring is often the best time to plant lavender ‘Phenomenal’ because the weather is heating up which favours the lavender, yet it does not have to contend with intense heat and sunshine if plant in Summer whilst the roots are establishing in the soil.

If you plant ‘Phenomenal’ in the early Spring then the plant has enough time to establish to the soil before flowering in the mid summer and the plant will be hardy and resilient by the time the cold weather and freezing temperatures of Winter.

Planting in the Fall is a good option too as the soil is still warm from Summer so the roots can establish relatively quickly and the plant does not have transplant shock in the Summer when temperatures are high.

Summer planting is also possible but there is a risk of drought in the intense heat before the lavender roots establish. Once the lavender has esbtalished the ‘Phenomenal’ is drought resistant and heat tolerant.

Read my article for how to plant or transplant lavender without transplant shock.

Spacing Lavender Phenomenal

Lavender Phenomenal is a fairly large lavender with a height of 32 inches and a width or 30 inches once fully grown.

However it often depends on the climate and growing conditions how big the lavender will grow to, with ‘Phenomenal’ growing to a larger size in climates that have conditions like the Mediterranean climate and slightly smaller in colder climates due to a shorter growing season.

It takes approximately 2 years for ‘Phenomenal’ to grow to full size.

Therefore you have to space the lavender according to the size when fully grown.

For the healthiest lavender with the most blooms I recommend planting ‘Phenomenal’ 3 feet away from each other and other plants.

This will allow airflow around the lavenders foliage which reduces the risk of fungal disease. Also this will give the lavenders root system enough space in the soil to access nutrients and water without having to compete with other lavenders.

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ requires full sun for the most blooms and strongest aromas, so plant the lavender where it is not shaded by any other plants in the garden.

For Hedging:

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ is unusual in that it can tolerate some humidity. Therefore it can make a great decorative hedge as it will cope with the micro-climate of being planted slightly closer together more so then other lavenders.

For hedging, plant ‘Phenomenal’ around 2 feet away from each other for a hedge that forms a continuous block without any gaps.

Although 2 feet may seem quite far apart when first planting new plants, remember that ‘Phenomenal’ is a fairly large lavender and it will grow to its full size in around 2 years, so some patience is necessary but they do look spectacular when in bloom in the Summer.

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ also lives a long time (up to 15 years) with the right care, compared to some other lavender varieties and it is cold hardy so it will tolerate frost, ice and snow in the Winter so you do not have to replace plants that suffer damage as often in the Winter.

(To learn more read my article on spacing lavender for hedges).

When and How to Prune

It is possible to successfully prune lavender ‘Phenomenal’ in the Spring or Fall but I recommend Spring pruning.

It is necessary to prune lavenders annually to promote more flowers and to increase the life span of the lavender.

Lavender only flowers on the stems of new seasons growth. Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ blooms in the mid Summer so by pruning in Spring, it stimulates new growth of stems that will support many flowers.

(Read my article how to increase lavender blooms).

Also If you are growing ‘Phenomenal’ in a colder climate, the lavender has all season for the new growth to mature and prepare for Winter, whereas if you prune too late in the Fall the wounds from the pruning can be more vulnerable to Winter damage.

Always prune at least the top third of lavender growth and try to create a mound shape as this resists damage from Winter weather such as snow.

The most important rule of pruning all lavender is to not cut back into the woody base of the plant as this older wood is not productive and does not support the new stems that display the flowers.

For a great visual guide to pruning, take a look at this YouTube video:

Growing in Pots and Containers

Lavender ‘Phenomenal’ grows very well in pots an containers as pots have more favourable drainage conditions then garden soil and they can also provide improved airflow.

Planting in pots is also very useful if your garden soil is not very good for growing lavenders (too acidic or slow draining) as you can control the soil profile and amend it much easier then with garden boarders.

The care for ‘Phenomenal’ in a pot is practically the same as the care in any other circumstance, but it is important that you plant lavender in a large enough pot or container.

It is important the the pot is around 12-16 inches across as a pot this size has the capacity to contain enough soil for the lavender to establish its roots and access nutrients.

(Read my guide to the best pots for lavenders).

Pots that are too small can result in a lavender that is root bound and as lavender requires full sun, a smaller pot can heat up and dry out too quickly even for the drought resistant lavender.

I would also recommend to water ‘Phenomenal’ once every 2 weeks in Summer, when planted in pots and containers even if there has been some rainfall.

The more cold-sensitive French and Spanish Lavenders are suited to climates with mild Winters and may not come back if they experience freezing temperatures.

Whereas English lavenders can tolerate snow, frost, and ice and come back in the Spring.

Lavender requires an annual prune to stay healthy and may not come back if it has been pruned too harshly or not been pruned properly for many years.

All lavenders require well-draining soil as they do not tolerate cold and damp soils in Winter.

Keep reading to avoid some of the common mistakes when growing lavender to ensue that your lavender comes back in the Spring…

Can Lavender Come Back After Winter? (Depends on the Climate)

Whether or not your lavender comes back after Winter mostly depends on the species of lavender and how cold the Winter is in your climate.

Lavenders are native to hot, arid regions in Southern Europe where the temperatures are mild during Winter.

Therefore certain lavenders are accustomed to mild Winters and their tender foliage can suffer in cold weather with frost, snow, and ice. The lavender species that are more vulnerable to cold weather are:

• Lavandula stoechas (the common name in the USA is Spanish lavender whereas in the UK it is called French Lavender) (USDA hardiness zones 7-9)
• Lavandula dentata (US common name: French Lavender, UK common name: Fringed lavender) (USDA zones 8-11)
• Lavandula latifolia (Common name: Portuguese Lavender) (USDA zones 7-10)

These species of lavender tend to die in Winter in colder climates (such as Washington, Oregon, New York, and countries such as the UK) if the lavender is not planted in a pot and placed indoors over winter to protect it from freezing temperatures.

However, in warmer climates (such as California or Spain) these lavenders tolerate the Winter and will come back for several years and display flowers in the Summer (up to 15 years with the right care).

There are 2 species of lavender that tolerate freezing temperatures and will come back after Winter. These are:

• English Lavender (lavandula angustifolia)
• Lavandula x intermedia

Both lavender species are generally regarded as cold hardy to zone 5 and English lavender in particular is valued for its resilience to cold weather

In cold climates, I highly recommend the English lavender varieties ‘Hidcote‘ and ‘Munstead‘ as they reliably come back after Winter despite snow, frost, and ice, and the variety ‘Hidcote Superior’ can reportedly tolerate temperatures as low as -30 °C (-20 °F).

In cold climates with English lavenders the old growth may turn a gray color and appear dead after a harsh Winter but it will come back with new growth and stems emerging in the Spring.

Here is a really great YouTube video that shows exactly how to prune your English lavenders in cold climates:

If your lavender does not show any signs of new green growth by May then it is most likely suffered from frost damage and you have to replace the lavender with a more hardy variety that is appropriate for your climate.

With the lavender varieties that are more sensitive to the cold (such as French and Spanish lavender), I recommend that you grow these lavenders in pots or containers and move them indoors, into a garage, or by a sunny window to protect them from the cold in Winter and return them outdoors in Spring after the last frost.

frost damage

Damp Soils Harm Lavenders Over Winter

Another common reason for lavender not coming back over Winter is that the roots do not tolerate soils that are both cold and damp.

Whilst some lavenders will tolerate cold temperatures, damp soils will increase the risk of root rot which can kill your lavender over Winter.

Lavenders are adapted to living in dry, sandy soils, with infrequent rainfall on the Mediterranean coast. Therefore soils that retain moisture (such as clay or rich compost) are not preferred by the lavender.

To ensure lavenders come back after Winter (and for best practice) it is essential that lavenders are planted in well-draining soil.

Ideally, the soil should be amended with horticultural sand or grit as this helps to improve drainage and the soil profile mimics the soil conditions of the lavender’s native environment where it thrives.

If your garden soil is slow draining or boggy then I recommend that you transfer your lavender to a pot as you can easily control the soil conditions in the pot or containers and pots have more favorable drainage then garden soil.

(Read my article for how to create the optimal soil mix for lavender).

This will help to ensure that the lavender survives Winter and does not suffer from root rot which is one of the most common reasons lavender does not come back.

If your lavender foliage is turning brown, black, or perhaps grey then this is a sign of a fungal pathogen attacking your lavender due to damp soil.

(To learn more about how to solve this read my article on lavender turning black).

Lavender Growing Back After Pruning

Lavenders often show new green growth by early spring which usually originates near the base of the plant which is the first sign that your lavender is coming back.

If your lavender does not have any new green growth by May then this can be because the lavender has been pruned too harshly or perhaps not been pruned for many years.

Lavenders require an annual prune to increase longevity, stimulate new flowers, and slow down the woody growth at the base.

Lavenders are perennial sub-shrubs that retain a woody base all year round. If you prune the lavender too harshly at the end of the Summer or in the Spring then the lavender may not come back.

This is because the woody base of the lavender does not rejuvenate and generally does not produce any new growth or stems from which the lavender can grow and display new flowers.

Do not prune lavenders down to the ground and leave at least a couple of inches of more flexible growth above the woody base of the plant. You can prune lavender successfully in the Spring or the Fall.

Watch this YouTube video for a good visual guide to pruning lavender striking the balance between a good annual prune, whilst avoiding over-pruning at the base:

Plants that are pruned too harshly may not regrow and you will have to replace the lavender.

On the other side of the spectrum lavenders that have not been pruned for many years will grow woody and leggy with the lavender looking untidy rather than a nice neat mound shape.

The woody parts of the lavender do not produce much growth and the lavender will display fewer flowers and the aroma will not be as strong from the foliage.

Saving woody lavenders is very difficult and usually, I would recommend that you either replace them or attempt to propagate any healthy growth.

(Read my article, on how to grow lavenders in pots for all the best care practices).

Key Takeaways:

• Lavender does come back after Winter if they are planted in the appropriate climate.
• French and Spanish lavenders are not cold hardy and may not come back after a cold Winter with freezing temperatures whereas English lavender can tolerate cold climates and grow again in the Spring.
• Plant lavender in well-draining soil to avoid root rot over Winter and avoid pruning back to the woody base of the plant and the lavender can live for many years.

Lavenders are adapted to dry conditions with infrequent rainfall in arid climates. Therefore established lavenders do not require regular watering, and they do not like humid conditions around the foliage as this increases the risk of fungal disease.

Keep reading to learn why lavenders turn dry and how to save the lavender…

Lavender Drying out Due Disease

One of the most common reasons for lavender to dry out with branches that turn brown is because of:

• Watering the lavender too frequently
• The lavender is planted in slow-draining soils
• Humid conditions

Lavenders are native to Southern Europe where they thrive in arid conditions, with well-draining, sandy soils, infrequent rainfall, and blazing sunshine with a consistent breeze.

To grow lavenders so that they are healthy, gardeners should seek to mimic the conditions of Southern Europe so that the lavender displays flowers, exudes a strong fragrance, and lives for many years without drying up and dying.

Established lavender often does not require any additional water if planted in temperate or somewhat humid climates and only requires watering once every 2 weeks in hot weather or in pots.

(To learn the best practices of watering in different conditions, read my guide to watering lavender).

If you are watering lavender more frequently than once every 2 weeks then you are over watering and the damp soil will likely lead to root rot or other fungal diseases, which can cause the foliage to turn brown or black and kill the lavender.

This also has the effect of the lavender branches turning dry and brittle, particularly from the bottom of the plant.

Even if you are watering lavender infrequently, the soil where the lavender is planted may be slow-draining. If so then the problems will be similar to overwatering.

Lavender requires porous, sandy, or stony soils that dry quickly and do not retain significant moisture.

Clay soils or soils that have been amended with rich compost will either drain too slowly or hold too much moisture for lavender roots to stay healthy.

Damp soils whether from overwatering or slow drainage encourage fungal disease and risks root rot.

Lavender prefers dry well-draining soil with a good content of sand or grit to increase the rate of drainage so that the roots stay dry between bouts of watering.

Humid conditions can also be the cause of fungal disease. Lavenders not only prefer dry roots but also dry foliage therefore it is important to not water them overhead but rather at the base of the plant and locate them in an area of your garden with good airflow.

This will help to keep the foliage dry and free from fungal diseases that can cause the lavender to dry up.

This may sound counterintuitive that a plant that looks as though it is drying requires less water, but it is important to replicate the dry conditions of the lavender’s native environment to prevent fungal diseases from attacking, which causes the lavender to appear as though it is drying up.

How to solve it…

To give your lavender a fighting chance of survival you will need to take the following steps:

• Dig the lavender up and inspect the roots for any signs of fungal disease. If there are any brownish and rotten-looking roots snip them off with a sterile pair of pruners and disinfect the pruners with alcohol disinfectant and a cloth after every cut to ensure you are not spreading the fungus.
• Cut away any dried-up branches off the lavender as these will not be productive, leaving just the healthy stems and foliage.
• Replant the lavender into a pot (because of the more favorable drainage) and plant it in a potting mix of one-third horticultural sand or grit and two-thirds compost or potting soil as this will increase the drainage and keep the roots dry between bouts of watering. (Read my guide to the optimal soil mix for lavenders).
• Place the pot in a location with a good breeze, away from other plants (at least three feet), and out from enclosed areas that may cause a more humid microclimate. This helps to reduce the humidity and mimics the breezing coastal conditions of the Mediterranean where lavender thrives.
• Water the plant far less frequently (once every two weeks) and shelter the pot from rainfall if possible to help the roots dry out and recover.

These steps will give the lavender a good chance to recover, however, recovery will often depend on the extent to which the lavender has dry branches that look dead.

Always throw away or burn any material that you have cut off that may have fungal disease, rather than place it in the compost as the fungus can stay dormant and potentially infect other plants.

It can be difficult to revive lavender with extensive damage so there is a possibility you have to replace the lavender, but if you provide the lavender with their preferred conditions there is a chance of revival.

It is important to transplant lavender to a pot that is the right size and with good drainage. Read my guide to choosing the right pot for lavender.

If lavender is drying up from the bottom of the plant and yet the top of the plant looks comparably healthy then it could be worth trying to propagate the lavender with cuttings from healthy stems.

Propagation of lavender is easy and has a relatively high success rate if you get the conditions right.

Here’s a useful video which explains exactly how to propagate:

Key Takeaways:

• Lavender that is drying out is usually because of overwatering, slow-draining soils, or high humidity that encourages root rot and fungal diseases.
• To solve the problem, snip away any infected roots and dry stems and replant the lavender in a pot with well-draining soil. Scale back the watering to give the roots a chance to dry.
• The lavender has the best chance of recovery if you replicate the growing conditions of its natural environment.

Lavenders grown in rich soil are characterized by floppy growth, with fewer blooms in the summer and potentially leaves that are turning yellow whereas lavenders that require pruning often have woody growth, that lacks a uniform shape and can grow sideways rather than straight.

Other possible causes of lavender not growing straight are overwatering, poor soil drainage, not enough sun, and pots without drainage holes in the base.

Keep reading to identify why your lavender is not growing straight and how to solve the problem…

Lavenders Require Annual Pruning to Grow Straight

One of the most common reasons for lavender not growing straight is because the lavender has not been regularly pruned. Lavenders require an annual prune in order to:

• Maintain the more attractive mound shape of a lavender. A rounded shape ensures that the flower stems grow more evenly around the plant and the lavender is better able to resist the effects of weather, particularly in Winter.
• Stimulate more blooms. Annual pruning helps to encourage new stems to grow in the Spring and Summer which are the stems that display the most flowers.
• Increases the lavender longevity. Regularly pruned lavenders can last up to 15 years or more.
• Prevents the lavender from becoming woody and untidy. Lavender that has not been pruned becomes more leggy which can cause the lavender to grow unevenly and and look messy. The lavender will then not grow straight but rather grow somewhat sideways and produce fewer flowers and not as strong an aroma.

Lavender turns progressively woody over the course of its life. The leggy growth is less productive for displaying new flowers and often grows at different angles and sideways rather than growing straight.

A good annual pruning significantly slows down the formation of wood and keeps the new growth growing straight.

The longer the lavender has not been pruned, the more liable it is to not grow straight and the more difficult it is to prune effectively so that it looks tidy and so the new growth grows straight rather than a leggy appearance.

If the lavender is significantly woody I would recommend that you replace it, or take cuttings for propagation. However, if the lavender hasn’t been pruned for a year or two it can likely be saved and grow as normal.

Watch this YouTube video of how to prune woody lavender.

Nutrient Rich Soil

Another reason for lavender to not grow straight is because of an excess of nitrogen in the soil (or the use of a fertilizer) which causes lavender to grow sappy stems that flop over rather than grow straight.

Lavenders are accustomed to the sandy or stony soils of the Mediterranean. Sand, grit, and stone do not tend to retain moisture or nutrients very well which results in low to medium fertility soil.

Lavenders have specifically adapted to growing in these relatively harsh conditions and actually grow their best, display the most flowers, and exude the strongest aroma in poor soils.

If you plant lavender in rich soils that retain a lot of nutrients and water or perhaps you have added manure to the soil mixture before planting then there will be too much nitrogen in the soil for lavenders to thrive.

The nitrogen stimulates lots of stem and foliage growth, but the growth tends to be structurally weak and flops over causing your lavender to not grow straight as it should.

The excess nitrogen also reduces the number of flowers on display in the Summer and the aroma from the foliage is not as strong. This growth is also more susceptible to fungal diseases than the lavender would otherwise be.

The solution… In order for lavender to grow straight and healthy you will have to either amend the garden soil, where it is currently planted, or transfer the lavender to a pot, which is a great option as you have control over the soil profile.

The Lavender requires sand or grit as an amendment to balance the nutrients and emulate the sandy soil conditions of the South of Europe where lavender is grown commercially.

If you are planting lavender in pots, mix in around 1 third horticultural sand or grit and 2 thirds potting soil or compost.

(To learn more, read my article for the optimal soil mix for lavenders).

This will ensure the lavender’s soil is well draining (lavenders prefer dry soils) with the right structure and low enough nutrients for the lavender to grow to its best.

The lavender won’t recover immediately if it has been in nutrient rich soil or has had fertilizer for a long time but it will gradually recuperate over the weeks and months and begin to grow straight.

If there is a significant amount of soft sappy growth then I would wait till the Fall or the next Spring to give it a good prune so it resembles more of a mound shape than a straggly plant that grows sideways!

Lavenders do not require additional fertilizer as they prefer low to medium soil fertility and grow to their best in the conditions.

Even commercial require who seek to maximize their yield plant lavender in sandy soil conditions as this ensures a greater concentration of lavender oil.

Other Possible Causes

Other possible causes for lavender not growing straight are:

• Not Enough light (lavenders require full sun)
• Overwatering
• Slow draining soil
• Pots without drainage holes in the base

Lavenders are adapted to living in full sun and the more sun the more blooms, oils, fragrance, and healthy foliage growth there will be.

Lavenders that are situated in a pot in the corner of a patio for example may be somewhat deprived of light and therefore lean towards the sun during the day rather than growing straight.

Turn the lavender round occasionally so the growth is not on one side or even better, move the potted lavender to a more open location with more light and the stems should grow straight.

Lavenders are adapted to arid climates with low levels of rainfall in countries such as Italy, France, and Spain. Therefore they do not require much water even in hot weather and actually prefer the soil to be somewhat dry.

(Read my article my article to learn how often to water lavender).

If the lavender is overwatered or planted in slow-draining soils (such as clay) then the soil will be too damp for the lavender to thrive. Lavenders in damp soil often droop down as a sign of stress.

If the lavender is specifically drooping rather than just not growing straight then you should scale back watering to once every 2 weeks to give the soil and chance to dry out and for the lavender roots to recover.

If the lavender is in damp soil for an extended time then the lavender is far more susceptible to fungal diseases where the leaves may turn gray, black, or brown.

Ensure the lavender is planted in well-draining soil and only water if necessary and the lavender can recover.

Lavenders should be planted in a pot that is around 12- 16 inches across and has drainage holes in the base to allow excess water to escape.

Pots with good drainage or the use of drip trays underneath the pot have a similar effect as over watering as the soil will likely be too damp and the lavender growth can droop downwards.

(Read my article on choosing the best pot for lavenders).

Lavenders planted in the correct pots with good drainage should recover within a few weeks with the right care and appropriate conditions for lavender.

If the foliage is also turning brown then this is likely a sign of fungal disease. If the leaves look unaffected yet the flowers are turning brown then a late frost can damage the tender flowers or the flowers have turned brown and require deadheading to stimulate more flowers.

Keep reading to learn why your lavender flowers have turned brown, whether it requires any attention, and how to solve it…

1. Brown Lavender Flowers Due to Overwatering or Poor Drainage

Lavender flowers (and foliage) can turn brown as a sign of stress due to overwatering, poor soil drainage, or perhaps because of a pot without proper drainage holes in the base.

Lavenders are native to Mediterranean climates with sandy soils, blazing summer sunshine, and infrequent rainfall or watering.

Whilst some lavender species tolerate cold climates (such as English lavenders and Intermedia lavenders), they are all adapted to living in dry, sandy, or stony soils with low to medium nutrients.

If the lavender is planted in water-retaining soil (such as clay) or perhaps compost that holds lots of moisture then the lavender is at increased risk of fungal disease and root rot.

If the lavender is drooping in appearance this is another symptom of fungal disease.

Lavenders grow to their best in terms of blooms and aromas in well-draining soil and their roots like to be kept dry between bouts of watering.

If you water your lavender more than once every 2 weeks then you are likely overwatering your lavender.

Lavenders are drought resistant and heat tolerant so they thrive in dry conditions and do not require watering anywhere near as much as most plants in a typical garden.

The fungal disease pathogens that attack lavender, thrive in damp soils hence the important to keep the soil well draining (with lots of sand or grit) and water infrequently if at all when the lavender is established.

(To learn more read my article, how often to water lavender).

Often lavenders attain more than enough water from rainfall and do not require any additional watering. This is particularly the case in temperate climates with spells of rain and overcast days.

The solution…

• Scale back the watering of your lavender to once every two weeks, even in hot weather to let the roots dry out between each watering.
• Amend the soil with horticultural sand or grit. This will improve soil drainage and ensure the right balance of nutrients in the soil, replicating the conditions of the lavender’s natural environment.
• If the foliage has turned significantly brown as well as the flowers then it is likely the lavender is under attack from a fungal disease. Remove the lavender from the ground or pot and inspect the roots. If the roots look brown and have a rotten texture then snip them off with a sterilised pair of pruners and remove any part of the lavender that has turned brown.

Lavenders that have a significant amount of brown foliage and flowers may not survive as it depends on the extent of the damage.

However, lavenders with brown flowers can often recover once they are planted in a more suitable soil profile with better drainage and the watering is significantly reduced.

(Read my article for more information on how to tackle lavender with fungal disease).

It’s also important to plant lavender in a pot with drainage holes in the base to allow excess water to escape, otherwise the soil will remain damp and increase the risk of fungal disease. Read my article for choosing the best pots for lavenders.

It is important to note that whilst the lavender requires some of the growing conditions of its native Mediterranean to grow healthy and produce healthy flowers, they do not necessarily have to have the high Mediterranean temperatures and mild Winters as long as they are in full sun and you choose a cold hardy species such as English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) or (Lavandula x intermedia) lavender for your garden.

(Read my article to learn about how to create the optimal soil mix for lavenders).

2. Late frost in the Spring

A late frost is often the culprit when it comes to lavender flowers turning brown. The emerging flowers are often more tender than the foliage of the lavender which can result in frost damage.

This is particularly true of the early flowering varieties such as French and Spanish lavender which are more vulnerable to frost and flower earlier in the season compared to the English and intermedia varieties.

The solution…

If you are in a climate with cold winters I recommend that you plant English (Lavandula angustifolia) and (Lavandula x intermedia) lavenders as they are far more cold hardy (hardy to USDA 5) and will survive Winter tolerating snow and freezing temperatures whereas Spanish and French lavenders generally only last one season without a mild Winter climate.

Lavender ‘Hidcote‘ and ‘Munstead‘ are great options for cold hardy English lavenders and exude a highly regarded sweet aroma.

Snip off the frost-damaged flowers if they have turned brown as this will increase the likelihood of more flowers later in the Summer and there should be no serious damage to the lavender.

3. Flowers Turn Brown up to Three Times per Year

The different species of lavender tend to bloom at different times of the Spring and Summer and individual lavender lavender flowers generally only last one month before turning brown, at which point they require deadheading which stimulates new flowers to emerge.

The French, Spanish, and Lavandula x intermedia varieties all tend to bloom up to three times throughout the Spring, Summer and even in the Fall if you are in a warmer climate with mild temperatures.

Each time it flowers, it will last approximately one month or so before the flowers naturally turn brown and require deadheading which stimulates more blooms.

This is a natural process, so do not be alarmed if some of the flowers are turning brown whilst others are still purple and healthy looking.

Simply deadhead the lavenders with a pair of pruners and you will see more flowers throughout the growing season.

If the brown flowers are left, without being pruned they will turn into the seed heads that you can hear rattle when you shake the lavender. This is obviously a good way to collect the seeds, if you want to grow new lavenders, although I recommend that you propagate lavender cuttings rather than grow from seed as it is much easier.

English lavenders have a shorter bloom than many lavenders however they are far more cold-hardy (hardy to USDA zone 5) tolerating frost in Winter, live longer than the French and Spanish varieties and the fragrance of the foliage is notably sweeter, and are stronger than the French and Spanish lavenders.

Deadheading lavenders stimulate more flowers as deadheading redirects the plant’s energy from producing seeds to growing more flower buds and displaying more flowers.

(For all the best care practices, read my article, on how to grow lavenders in pots and containers).

Lavender ‘Grosso’ is a larger lavender variety that grows up to 46 inches (116 cm) across and 32 inches (80 cm) wide with optimal conditions and therefore requires a good amount of space to grow its best.

The more humid the climate the more space and airflow you should give lavender ‘Grosso’ to mitigate the risk of fungal disease.

It is worth noting that lavender ‘Grosso’ will not necessary grow to its full size in every garden as it depends on the specific growing conditions, climate and best practices in terms of care. Read my article on how to care for lavender ‘Grosso’.

Keep reading to learn how to space lavender ‘Grosso’ for the conditions of your garden…

Spacing Lavender ‘Grosso’

As lavender go, lavender ‘Grosso’ is a larger variety at full size and therefore it requires to be spaced more generously then smaller varieties such as ‘Hidcote‘ or ‘Munstead‘.

Lavenders are adapted to living in open conditions without having to compete with other plants for light or airflow on the breezy coast of the Mediterranean.

In climates that resemble the Mediterranean, with hot summers, full sun, infrequent rainfall, mild Winters, and optimal growing conditions, such as well-draining sandy soils, the lavender will grow slightly larger than in colder climates with less sun.

Therefore the spacing of your lavender ‘Grosso’ should correlate with your climate.

Spacing lavender ‘Grosso’:

• In temperate climates (such as Washington, Oregon, or the UK) with shorter growing seasons. plant lavender ‘Grosso’ around 2 feet or more apart.
• In hot climates (California, Spain, Italy) that a similar to the Mediterranean, space lavender ‘Grosso’ around 2-3 feet apart.
• The more characteristically humid the climate is the further you should space lavender ‘Grosso’ at around 3 feet apart. This will help increase airflow which prevents fungal disease.

Lavenders typically do not like humid climates as they are adapted to the Mediterranean conditions of Southern European regions with full sun, and arid conditions with infrequent rainfall.

If your climate is somewhat humid then plant the lavender in an open part of your garden as far from other plants as is reasonable and consider planting ‘Grosso’ in pots or raised beds rather then in the ground for increased airflow for the foliage.

Lavender ‘Grosso’ typically requires 2-3 feet of distance because:

• This allows the plant to grow to its full size at maturity without casting shade on other lavenders planted nearby. The more direct sun light that a lavender ‘Grosso’ receives the more blooms and stronger the fragrance (lavender ‘Grosso’ is highly valued for its fragrance and is grown commercially).
• So that each lavender has enough space to allow their root system to establish in the soil and access the water and the nutrients it requires without having to compete with other plants.
• To allow for a breeze so the foliage stays dry. Planting lavenders in too small an area, close to other plants can create a more humid micro-climate which increases the risk of fungal disease.

Spacing ‘Grosso’ in Pots Containers and Raised beds

The same sort of guidelines apply to spacing lavender ‘Grosso’ in pots and raised beds as planted in garden boarders with 2-3 feet of space in full sun being optimal for growth, and blooms.

However you can get away with planting or locating pots closer together as the airflow and drainage conditions in pots tends to be better then garden boarders so fugal disease is not as significant a threat.

Consider that 2-3 feet of distance also includes the distance to fences, walls, and any other structure as well as plants, and ensure that if the pot is in a corner there is the occasional breeze and full sun, rather than the still air which can exacerbate the risk of fungal disease.

Spacing Lavender ‘Grosso’ Hedges

Lavender ‘Grosso’ can grow very well as a decorative hedge in many gardens due to its cold hardiness as well as heat resistance and drought tolerance and can form one uninterrupted mass of purple flowers in the Summer.

‘Grosso’ also grows to a considerable width so forming a hedge requires fewer individual plants than other smaller popular lavenders.

If your climate is similar to the Mediterranean climate (blazing sun, high heat, and infrequent rainfall), the larger ‘Grosso’ will grow, whereas, in colder climates such as the UK or Oregon, lavenders tend to be a bit smaller due to the shorter growing season and fewer hours of sunshine.

This will affect how far apart you need to space ‘Grosso’ when planting your hedge.

In cool temperate climates plant lavender ‘grosso’ is around 20 inches apart. That is 20 inches between each planting area rather than 20 inches from the furthers reaches of the foliage.

This will ensure that your lavender grows into one continuous hedge yet still gives the roots system enough room to establish. Planting too close will result in each plant being compromised in terms of the number of blooms and the health of each plant.

In warm climates that are similar to the Mediterranean with lots of sunshine and dry weather, plant each lavender around 2 feet apart to ensure the lavender forms a solid, smart-looking hedge.

Within 2 years the hedge will have blended in together and form a mass of flowers and sweet smelling foliage.

(To learn more read my article on the spacing of lavender hedges).

Key Takeaways:

• Plant lavender ‘Grosso’ 2-3 feet apart. This will ensure each plant has enough light, space for roots, and access to water and nutrients.
• Lavenders grow largest when in climates that are similar to their native Mediterranean and may grow slightly smaller in colder climates due to the shorter growing season.
• Space ‘Grosso’ around 3 feet or more in humid climates to increase airflow and prevent fugal diseases.
• ‘Grosso’ grows well in pots and containers due to the increased potential for airflow and favorable drainage conditions.
• Space ‘Grosso’ around 20 inches to 2 feet apart when planting hedges. Plant lavenders closer together in cold climates with less intense sunshine and further apart in hot and dry climates with optimal conditions to accommodate for the size difference.

Lavenders should grow straight from a relatively even mound shape as this will resist Winter weather such as snow and ice which can damage the lavender.

Other potential reasons for lavender growing sideways include, overwatering (which causes the plant to droop over) or lavender in pots that are located in a corner, so only one side of the plant gets most of the sun.

I should stress that it is far more likely that nutrient rich soil conditions or fertilizers are the cause for lavender growing sideways than overwatering or any other cause.

Keep reading to learn why lavender can grow sideways and how to make it grow straight…

Lavender Growing Sideways due to Rich Soil

Lavenders are native to countries in Southern Europe in the Mediterranean region where they have adapted to sandy soils that are relatively low in nutrients, in full sun with little rainfall.

It is in these conditions that lavender grow their best with scented foliage and abundant flower displays.

Sand does not retain or contribute much nutrients in the soil (which lavenders prefer) so when they are planted into rich soils or compost or with soil amendments such as manure, then lavenders may start to droop in appearance yet carry on growing sideways.

Excess Nitrogen in the soil is responsible for excessive stem and foliage growth which results in lavender stems that are more soft and sappy than usual which makes them more liable to fall over rather than grow straight as normal.

If there is too much nitrogen the lavender can grow sideways and droop down, yet still grow at a quick rate as the nitrogen stimulates the growth of stems and foliage but usually at the expense of flowers and aroma.

If the nitrogen content of the soil is particularly high (or because of additional fertilizer) then the lavender leaves may turn yellow.

The resulting leggy growth is also more vulnerable to fungal disease.

To ensure that the lavender grows into a proper shape, rather than sideways it is important to replicate the soil conditions of the lavender’s native environment by creating a low to medium nutrient soil mix.

Fortunately, this is very easy to do and only requires sand or grit with some potting soil or compost.

If possible try to use horticultural sand as the particle size is bigger than regular sand which allows for improved drainage and an aerated soil for efficient root respiration.

You can either lift the lavender out of the ground gently with a fork (to avoid damaging the roots) and amend the soil with sand or transfer the lavender to a pot which is often easier.

Add roughly 1 third of the volume of the pot or planting area with sand and 2 thirds with compost.

This mix recreates the same proportions of sandy/stony soils in the Mediterranean and balances out the lavender of nutrients so that it is suitable for growing lavenders.

(Read my article to learn about the optimal soil mix for lavenders).

With the appropriate growing conditions, the lavender should begin to recover and the foliage should grow upwards rather than sideways.

However, if there has been extensive sideways growth then pruning the excess sideways stems of the lavender (preferably in the Fall or early Spring to avoid compromising flowering) will improve the lavender’s shape and allow it to grow properly.

Watch this YouTube video for how to prune lavender:

Additional Fertilizer Causing Sideways Growth

Lavenders also do not require any fertilizer for the same reasons that they do not like nutrient rich soil.

Lavenders prefer low to medium fertility soil and additional fertilizer is contrary to these preferred conditions.

Lavenders are plants that thrive on neglect in relatively harsh conditions.

The use of fertilizer can cause a more pronounced adverse reaction for lavenders (in terms of sideways growth and foliage turning yellow) than fertile soils due to the contrast of a sudden influx of nutrients.

If the lavender appears to be growing sideways or drooping quickly with leggy foliage growth and the leaves are turning yellow then it is a good idea to transfer the lavender into a pot or container with the appropriate sandy soil mix to help it recover.

The lavender should survive but it will take some patience as the lavender may take some time to look normal again and it will require a good prune in the Fall to achieve the right shape.

However, in the following growing season, the lavender leaves should start to turn green and display more flowers.

Note that the leggy growth of lavenders is more susceptible to fungal disease therefore ensure the lavender has good airflow by spacing the lavender a suitable distance apart and watering the lavender infrequently (once every two weeks if there has been no rainfall).

The lavender should recover and should start to grow properly rather than sideways, however, this may take time.

If the lavender is still growing sideways then this would suggest overwatering rather than nutrient rich soil.

Overwatering Causing Sideways Lavender

A potential cause of lavender growing sideways is that the soil is too damp. This could be due to:

• Overwatering
• Slow draining soil
• Pots without drainage holes in the base

Lavenders are native to hot climates, with dry sandy soils and little rainfall, therefore they do not like damp soil.

Lavenders in consistently moist soil will show signs of stress such as drooping or perhaps a wilted appearance which may look as though the plant is growing sideways.

Damp soil increases the likelihood of fungal disease. If the foliage starts to turn brown, black or gray then the lavender is suffering from a fungal disease.

If you suspect the lavender is growing sideways because of damp soil:

• Scale back the watering to once every two weeks if there has been no significant rainfall.
• Replant the lavender in a well-draining sandy soil mix to help keep the roots dry.
• Ensure that lavenders planted in pots or containers have drainage holes in the base.

With dryer soil conditions the lavender should improve over several weeks and begin to grow normally with healthier stems, and more resilient to disease.

Lavender in a Corner with Less Light

Lavender prefer to be in a relatively open area with full sun and an occasional breeze, to prevent fungal disease.

If lavenders are in corners of the garden (particularly pots on patios) then the growth on one side of the plant that is relatively shaded will not be as prolific and the side that faces the sun may grow somewhat sideways.

If the lavender is in a pot, you can move the plant to a more open, sunnier location or turn the lavender around every so often so that the plant sees as much light as possible and grows into a more even mound shape which should encourage the plant to flower more evenly.