Hydrangeas are one of my favorite shrubs, and I recommend them to all my friends when they ask me what they should plant in their gardens. I love their ability to tolerate different light conditions, but the most common problem that people say they have with their hydrangea is that it starts to droop, and they’re not sure why.
Fortunately, I have a lot of personal, first-hand experience in caring for and planting hydrangeas in my job as a landscape gardener. In this article, I’ll share with you how to identity the reason your hydrangea is dropping and how you can save it…
Let’s get straight to it! Here’s the short answer…
Your hydrangea is drooping either because the soil is too dry, it is in too much sun, or it is receiving too much nitrogen fertilizer. Hydrangeas prefer dappled light, consistently moist soil and slow-release fertilizer to avoid a drooping appearance and stay healthy.
If you’re still unsure, don’t worry! Keep reading to learn why your hydrangea is wilting, and you can implement the solutions to help it recover…
These are the Most Common Reasons for Hydrangea Drooping That I See
So I thought I’d start off by listing the reasons for droopng leaves in the order of prevalence which I see them.
From experience, hydrangeas most frequently droop due to dry soil as they require the soil to be consistently moist (but not saturated); however, the lack of soil moisture can be due to several different reasons:
- Is your hydrangea in direct sunlight? Too much sun or high temperatures can increase transpiration from the hydrangea’s abundant large leaves, causing the plant to wilt.
- Do you have fast-draining soil? The soil is too dry as a result of sandy soil, which drains far too quickly, or because of direct sunlight dries out the soil.
- Are there trees surrounding your hydrangea? Root systems from large trees compete with the hydrangea for moisture and dry out the soil, causing the hydrangea’s leaves and flowers to droop.
So, I feel it’s important to include a bit of geographical nuance here, as I have readers all over the globe! In cooler, more northern latitudes (such as Oregon or the UK, etc.), I’ve personally seen hydrangeas can tolerate full sun due to the prevalence of overcast days, less intense sun, and cool temperatures.
However, when I’ve grown hydrangeas in hot climates (such as California), hydrangeas absolutely require shade, particularly from the intense midday sun; otherwise, they wilt.
How do we Save it?
So whenever I’m planting a new hydrangea in someone’s garden (either a friend’s or a customer’s garden…I don’t go around planting hydrangeas in random gardens!), the first thing I prioritize is good soil preparation to provide the optimal conditions for hydrangeas to stay hydrated.
How do I do this? I use abundant compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve the soil’s moisture-retaining capacity before planting.
All work incredibly well for hydrangea, but if you suffer from dry soil due to sand or tree roots competing for moisture, I’ll recommend leaf mold (just composted leaves).
I love leaf mold, as it retains more moisture than any other soil amendment I’ve tested. It essentially replicates hydrangeas’ natural soil conditions (hydrangeas grow in woodlands in the wild).
However, if your hydrangea is established and wilting, then don’t worry! I have some tips for this problem.
What I typically do here is to soak the surrounding soil with a hose for at least 10 minutes and apply a 1-inch layer of mulch to the soil around the hydrangea.
I love to use mulching materials such as compost, leaf mould, or well-rotted manure have an exceptional capacity for holding water and help conserve soil moisture while retaining the soil’s porous friable structure, all of which are favourable for growing hydrangeas.
When I’ve had to do this myself, I’ve found that with a good soak and a generous application of mulch around the hydrangea, the plant usually perks up again within a day or so. I’m always amazed at their resilience!
As we discussed, our hydrangeas naturally grow under the canopy of trees and, therefore, appreciate partial shade with some dappled light throughout the day.
In one customer’s garden, I was left somewhat baffled as to why their hydrangea was drooping, as I know firsthand that it had been planted in good soil, mulched every year, and watered generously. I put on my garden investigator’s hat and went to investigate the cause.
Some exploratory digging in the area around the hydrangea unveiled the culprit! The next work of shallow, thirsty roots from trees (in this case, pine and beech tree roots, which are incredibly thirsty!) that formed an unforgiving lattice structure in the surrounding soil, consuming all the water they can and limiting the hydrangea roots access to water.
This fierce competition for water was to the detriment of the hydrangea, so I suggested to my client that they transplant the hydrangea away from the tree roots, but they were reluctant. So we came up with a plan to heap in the mulch every year with leaf mold (which has the highest capacity for holding water) and give it a generous soak every week if it hadn’t rained.
I am pleased to report that it did the trick, and the hydrangea bounced back from its drooping appearance; however, for me, it was quite a high-maintenance solution, and personally, if it was up to me, I’d move the hydrangea (which is best done in the Spring or fall) and plant it in an area without so many trees roots.
(Read my article to learn how to successfully grow hydrangeas under pine trees).
I should also highlight that hydrangea tend to wilt if they are in full sun so it is important to locate your plant in partial shade or provide the hydrangea with shade after planting.
I’ve personally had the best results locating my hydrangeas in an area with morning sun followed by afternoon shade or under a tree for dappled light throughout the day for the optimal balance of enough sun to promote flowers yet not too much sun that the hydrangea is at risk of wilting.
What I’ve discovered in my horticultural travels is that in hotter climates such as California, it is much better to grow hydrangeas in dappled light to keep them shaded and protect them from the sun, whereas in more northerly latitudes (such as Oregon), which have more rainfall, morning sun (followed by afternoon shade) is best as there is enough sunlight for flowering and the hydrangea is protected from the harsh midday sun which in my experience is the optimal balance for hydrangeas.
(There are a few reasons for hydrangeas not displaying flowers, which can be solved. Read my article: Why are my hydrangeas not flowering?)
If it is difficult to move your hydrangea, what I would recommend is to consider planting some tall trees or shrubs around the hydrangea to provide protection from wind, frost, and intense sun, as well as to prevent your hydrangea from drooping and improve the conditions for flowering.
Too Much Fertilizer? (Leaves and Flowers Drooping)
This one may surprise you a bit, but another common problem that I see a lot that results in drooping hydrangea leaves and flowers is that there is too much nitrogen fertilizer.
But how would you know whether your hydrangea is drooping because it is dehydrated or because of too much fertilizer? Well, I’ve observed that there are a few distinctions between hydrangeas wilting due to lack of water and a hydrangea that is drooping due to nitrogen, which is that:
- If there is abundant foliage growth with lush green leaves and the plant looks generally healthy, there is a drooping appearance (rather than a shriveled appearance) of leaves, stems, and flowers.
- The large flowers are drooping under their own weight, or the hydrangea displays fewer flowers than normal.
It is important to know that hydrangeas are not necessarily heavy feeders, so applying fertilizer too frequently or in a concentration that is too high can cause the hydrangea to droop due to excess nitrogen.
Nitrogen promotes lush green foliage growth, which causes the stems of the hydrangea that support the large flower and all the leaves to grow sappy and weak which causes it to droop.
I spoke to some commercial growers who assured me that established hydrangeas in well-prepared, nutrient-rich soil (such as loam) often do not require any additional fertilizer to grow and flower and additional fertilizer can harm the plant.
However, I would say that there are some exceptions to this. Some fertilizer applications can improve the appearance of your hydrangea if, for example, it is planted in a pot and therefore has less access to nutrients or perhaps the soil is nutrient-poor. In this case, a well-balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer is appropriate.
Once excess fertilizer has been applied and the hydrangea has grown abundant foliage that is drooping in appearance, I’m afraid there is not much you can do other than stop using fertilizer for a year or so. Your hydrangea should recover eventually, but you are likely going to have to wait a long time.
You might be thinking, “But I haven’t used any fertilizer on my hydrangea!” This may be the case, but I have seen people apply lawn fertilizer, which then gets dissolved and washed off the surface of the lawn the next time it rains and runs into the hydrangea flower bed, causing it to grow droopy, so be careful!
(If your hydrangeas are not flowering, read my article, why is my hydrangea not blooming for solutions that actually work).
Why is My Potted Hydrangea Wilting?
I am an advocate for growing hydrangeas in pots and containers, as you can then grow them on a patio or move them if they get scorched by too much sun! However, there are some problems associated with this that we need to be aware of.
The most common cause of potted hydrangea wilting is that the plant is planted in a relatively small pot or container.
The reason for this is that the smaller the pot or container the less capacity for soil and the less moisture for the hydrangea roots to draw upon, which quickly leads to drooping leaves and a dying hydrangea.
I have rescued many a potted hydrangea that was suffering from this very problem.
Pro Tips I Use for Saving Wilting Potted Hydreageas
- I have personally had more success growing hydrangeas in plastic or glazed ceramic pots (rather than clay or terracotta) because plastic and ceramic are impermeable, which means they are not porous and retain moisture which is very helpful for preventing your hydrangea from wilting due to drought. I’ve always found that clay pots dry out too quickly for a hydrangea to thrive without suffering from thirst!
- If you’re in a hot climate, then I have personally had more success reviving hydrangeas in ceramic pots that are lighter in color (white pots are great, although they can look dirty if you don’t wash them!) The reason for this is that ceramic pots are thicker, and therefore, I’ve found that they do not heat up as quickly as the thinner plastic pots, so the soil is able to retain moisture for longer, keeping your hydrangea lovely and refreshed! Why the lighter color? Because white reflects the sun and, therefore, the heat away from the pot, keeping the soil cool and moist! Trust me, it really makes a difference! I’ve found that my white pots typically dry out 3 or 4 days later than black pots in the same climate (assuming the pots are of the same size).
- Struggling to grow your potting hydrangea in hot climates without it drooping due to heat and drought? If your soil is drying out, then use my special tried and tested potting mix. I’ve experimented with several different types of potting mix for potted hydrangeas, and what I’ve found works best in warmer climates is to use as much as 50% leaf mold (composted leaves), with the rest regular potting soil compost I bought from the store. I did a little test and found out the regular potting soil in a 12-inch pot dries out 3 days earlier (this test was done during summer), then a pot that I mixed with 50% leaf mold, which shows just how much moisture leaf mold can hold.
While your hydrangea is drooping, I first move the pot to an area of partial shade. Morning sun, followed by afternoon shade, is usually the best balance for promoting blooms.
You need to repot your hydrangea, but how big should the pot be? Ideally, your hydrangea should be planted in a pot at least 12-16 inches across to ensure enough soil and nutrients for your hydrangea to remain resilient and healthy.
Typically the most favourable times of the year to repot hydrangeas are in the Spring or Fall as the hydrangea does not have to contend with the intense heat during summer whilst its roots are establishing, but if your hydrangea is really struggling then my advice is to repot it now otherwise it may die!
I should also reiterate the importance of soaking your potted hydrangea regularly with enough water so that it trickles out the base. This step alone may help your plant fully recover from its wilted appearance if light watering is the problem.
In times of excessive heat, I have had to up the frequency of my watering to once every 3 days in Siimmer and move my poot to a cooler, shade action to revive it from wilting.
Just Planted Your Hydrangea, and it’s Wilting? The Roots May Not Have Established Properly.
I hear a lot from people that their new Hydrangeas are wilting after planting. This has happened to me, and it’s due to transplant shock, which is due to a contrast between growing conditions from the garden center or nursery where it was originally cultivated and your garden’s specific conditions.
This is because the roots of our hydrangeas can take some time to establish in the soil, during which time the hydrangea is vulnerable to drooping as it loses more water through transpiration from the leaves than the roots can draw upon from the new soil.
But don’t be alarmed! You can save it!
My Tips for Reviving a Newly Planted Hydrangea
In my case, my hydrangea bounced back and looked perky in the next 3 weeks when I followed these steps…
- Protect new hydrangeas from the sun.
- Water every three days.
- Use compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure mulch around the plant to conserve moisture.
For my newly planted hydrangeas to recover, I protected the plant from intense sun.
Whilst some sunlight is beneficial for promoting flowers at this stage of planting, it is likely to exacerbate the soil and leaves drying out and drooping.
I provided it with temporary shade whilst it got established for around three weeks, by using the high technical approach of *ahem* using a parasol (sun shade) from my patio over my ailing hydrangea! Whilst it got some funny looks from the neighbors, this approach was very successful indeed!
So here’s what we need to understand to save our plants. Your hydrangea may have been grown in a temperature-controlled greenhouse with a very specific set of conditions, so it can take the hydrangea time to adjust to the garden soil before the leaves recover from drooping. I know this first hand as I used to work in a commercial greenhouse preparing plants for sale!
Always give the soil a good soak and an application of mulch on the surface of the soil around the hydrangea to conserve moisture and shield the soil from direct sunlight.
I then watered my hydrangea frequently as required to keep the soil moist which is usually around 3 times per week, but ensure soil does not become boggy as this could cause other problems such as root rot.
Depending on how dehydrated your hydrangea is, the leaves may recover in the cooler evening, or it may take a few days as long as the soil is moist and you have protected the plant from the sun.
Do you have any more questions about hydrangeas? Or perhaps any different perspectives? Please leave a comment below, and I’ll reply to help you solve your problem! Reviving plants is what I do, and I love hearing from you!
Key Takeaways:
- Hydrangeas wilt due to a lack of moisture in the soil. They require moist soil and partial shade to remain healthy and prevent the leaves and flowers from wilting.
- High nitrogen fertilizer can also cause flower heads and leaves to droop. Scale back the use of fertilizer to let the hydrangea recover.
- Drooping hydrangeas are a sign of stress from transplant shock. Provide shade for them, water frequently, and add mulch to help them recover from a wilting appearance.