Here is a quick summary of how to care for indoor palms:

About Indoor Potted Palm Trees

Indoor potted palm trees all belong to the family Arecaceae family, and whilst palm trees grow in a diversity of conditions in the natural world, popular palm trees that are cultivated as houseplants all have very similar care needs with bright indirect light, high humidity, and good drainage being the most critical care requirements.

I have cared for all the most popular varieties of indoor palm trees, and I can personally recommend Kentia palms as the best palm for beginners as it is by far the most hardy, whereas majesty palms are far more sensitive, being particularly susceptible to turning brown due to fluctuations in temperature.

The most popular types of potted palm trees are:

• Kentia Palm (Howea forsteriana)
• Majesty Plam (Ravenea rivularis)
• Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta)
• Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
• Areca Palm (Areca Lutescens)
• Queen Palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana)
• Cat Palm (Chamaedorea cataractarum)
• Pygmy Date Palm (Phoenix roebelenii)

However this is by no means an exhaustive list as there are literally thousands of palm trees, but you can be assured that each variety of palm enjoys broadly the same care.

Did you know that indoor palm trees (Areca palms specifically) are capable of filtering the air indoors of pollutants?

How Much Sunlight Does My Palm Tree Need?

Whilst indoor palm trees can tolerate low light, they grow best in bright, indirect light in Spring and Summer. Locate your indoor palms in your brightest room during Winter. Turn your indoor palm tree around by 45 degrees when you water it to ensure even growth, preventing it from leaning to one side.

My personal indoor palm grows best when in a room with a south-facing window with lots of bright light yet set back from any direct sunlight, which can cause the leaves to turn brown.

I find my palm tree (and all houseplants), in general, grow better when the room is painted white to reflect as much light as possible, although they can thrive in any color scheme as long as the light is nice and bright!

If you are looking for a palm that copes well in lower light, then the Parlour Palm and Kentia Palm are by far the best options because they are adapted to grow in the shade of a tree canopy.

How Often Should You Water Indoor Palms?

Generally, indoor palm trees should be watered every 7 days during Spring and Summer and once every 2 weeks in the Fall and Winter. Allow the top inch of the soil to dry between bouts of watering.

If you are unsure whether your palm needs watering, then I personally find the best method is to feel the top inch of the soil with your finger to detect when the top inch has dried, which would indicate that it is the perfect time to water.

I personally much prefer this method as, in my experience, it is much more accurate than moisture meters which I find unreliable.

If the top inch of soil still feels dry to the touch, then delay your watering until it feels dry.

Humidity

The air indoors is usually too dry for palm trees which can cause the leaves to turn brown and crispy. Palms prefer humidity of around 40%, so mist the leaves every day to counteract dry air.

You can also group all your humidity-loving houseplants close together to create a more humid microclimate or prop your pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot is above the water line. The constant evaporation increases local humidity replicating the hmid conditions of a tropical environment in your home!

I have found that I have to mist my palm plants more often in the Winter as cold air naturally carries less humidity, and the hot air from indoor heating also drives down humidity, so I have personally started using a humidifier to avoid having to constantly mist the leaves in certain rooms due to central heating.

I have also found that in my experience, the Aareca palm and Majesty palm tend to turn brown more quickly in response to low humidity due to their thinner leaves, whereas Sago palms and Kentia, which have thicker, more waxy leaves, are more resilient to low humidity.

What is the Best Temperature Range for Indoor Palm Trees?

Indoor palm trees are comfortable at room temperature with an optimal range of 65-80°F (18-27°C) during Spring and Summer, with a 10ºF drop in temperature at night. Keep all indoor palms in temperatures above 55ºF (13ºC) in Winter, or they may die back.

Important tip: Keep your palm trees away from any source of indoor heating as this can cause an increase in temperature at night when it prefers a 10ºF temperature decrease.

Equally, it is important to avoid locating your palm near any sources of cold air, such as draughts from frequently open doors or windows.

Fertilizer

Feed indoor palms once a month during active growth from March until September. Palms are slow-growing and, therefore, do not need as much fertilizer as most houseplants but potted palms do suffer from specific nutritional deficiencies.

This is why I prefer to use a palm plant-specific fertilizer to address any potential nutrient deficiencies (potassium deficiency is particularly common for indoor potted palms) before they become a problem. I personally use a product called ‘Palm Focus’ for my indoor palms, but there are a lot of good products out there.

What Type of Soil Do Indoor Palms Need?

The best potting soil mix for my indoor palm trees is 80% all-purpose potting soil with 20% perlite or pine bark. The perlite creates the optimal soil structure with a loose, open texture which allows for good drainage, whilst the potting soil retains moisture and provides the nutrients to meet the palm’s needs.

I would caution against planting any indoor palms in unamended potting soil as this is likely to retain too much moisture and become unfavorably compacted over time, both of which can cause root rot.

Palms naturally grow in well-draining, reasonably gritty soil in their native habitats so adding perlite helps to replicate their ideal soil conditions.

Best Pots for Indoor Palms

Clay and terracotta pots are best for indoor palms as these materials are breathable, which allows the potting soil to dry more evenly between bouts of watering. Plastic pots are impermeable and can dry out too slowly for indoor palm trees to tolerate.

However, one thing I would highlight is that a palm tree with a clay or terracotta pot full of damp potting soil can become particularly heavy, which can be impractical if you intend to move it frequently (for cleaning, etc.)

In this case, I plant some of my larger houseplants in plastic pots as this can be more practical as they are lighter.

How Often to Repot Indoor Palm Trees?

Repot indoor palm trees every 2-3 years in the Spring or early Summer. Use a pot that is only about 2 inches larger than the previous pot to avoid ‘over-potting,’ which is where the soil dries out too slowly. Palm trees have fragile root systems, so be careful when repotting.

To check whether your indoor palm needs repotting, look to see if any roots are growing out of the drainage holes in the base because if the holes become blocked, the palm is likely to die of root rot.

I personally always re-pot my larger palm trees every three years as I find this helps to restrict the growth of the tree, as palm trees can grow very large and very heavy and outgrow the room they are in. I find it is a two-person job, so ask a friend for help when repotting!

Pruning

If your indoor palm is green and healthy looking, there is no need to prune it, and excessive pruning can even weaken the plant. However, if the outer fronds have turned brown and crispy then you can trim these off with a sharp pair of pruners in the Spring.

You can prune dying fronds at any time of year, really, but I typically wait to prune the leaves of my trees until the Spring when the tree is at its most resilient.

Pro tip: I would also recommend pruning the fronds only when they are brown and crispy. If the outer fronds at the base of the plant are turning yellow and brown, this is often a sign that the palm is drawing up nutrients from the leaves, which benefits the tree, so wait until the frond is brown and dried out completely before pruning.

Once they have turned crispy, you can cut them back to the base.

Sometimes some leaves of your palm can turn brown due to low humidity, in which case you need to increase the humidity with regular misting and cut the brown leaves back to healthy growth. I should highlight that this is not necessary from a plant health perspective but merely for aesthetic reasons to keep your palm looking healthy.

How do I Care for Indoor Palms in Winter?

If you have the space indoors, I recommend moving your palm tree to the brightest room in your home in the winter months, particularly if you live in a northern latitude with short winter days.

You can also use a grow light if you do not have the space near a brighter window.

Scale back how often you water your palm trees in Winter by only watering once every 2 or 3 weeks, ensuring that the top inch of the potting soil feels dry before watering again. Palm trees hate damp soil in winter, whilst they are not in active growth, so it is better to go underwater than overwater.

I would also recommend misting the leaves of your palms as often as every day in Winter, as dry Winter air and central heating sap moisture from the leaves, causing them to turn brown.

Do not use any fertilizer during Fall and Winter as your palm tree is not actively growing, and keep them in a room where the temperature does not get colder than 55°F (13ºC) at night.

Are Indoor Palm Trees Toxic to Cats and Dogs?

Whilst most species of indoor palm trees are not toxic to cats and dogs, it should be noted that the popular species of Sago Palms (Cycas revoluta) is toxic to both cats and dogs, so avoid growing sago palms indoors if you have pets.

The other popular species of indoor palms, such as the majesty palm, parlour palm, areca palm, and kentia palm, are all non-toxic to cats, according to the ASPCA.

Troubleshooting:

Why are My Palm Leaves Turning Brown and Crispy?

• Underwatering and low humidity are the most common reasons indoor palms turn brown. Air conditioning and indoor heating are usual culprits for lowering humidity to unfavorable levels. Mist the leaves more often and give the soil a good soak. Trim back any brown leaves or fronds back to healthy growth.
• Sometimes, the outer lower fronds turn brown and crispy as the palm ages. Let the growth dry out before cutting back with pruners.

Palm leaves Turning Yellow

• Usually, the reason for palm tree leaves turning yellow and brown is overwatering or poor drainage. Palm trees need well-draining, gritty soil and prefer the top inch of the soil to dry between each bout of watering. Reduce how often you water your palm and always test the soil to an inch depth with your finger to ensure the soil is sufficiently dry before watering. If it is Spring or Summer, I would also recommend repotting your palm with a gritty mix of 80% potting soil and 20% perlite to improve drainage. Do not repot during Fall or Winter.
• Yellow and brown leaves indicate the palm tree is too cold. Palms are native to warm tropical climates and do not appreciate cold blasts of air from open doors or draughts from windows. Find a place for your palm tree with stable temperatures ideally between 65-80°F (18-27°C).

If you have any more problems with your indoor palm tree, then read my article, How to Revive an Indoor Plam Tree.

It is also a great way to gain new houseplants for free and I always find they make a very well-appreciated gift at a housewarming!

In this article, I guide you through step by step with all the relevant photos of my own journey of propgagting monstera plant in water, with all the experience I have gained from doing this at home and commercially when supplying garden centers…

Why Propagating Monstera in Water is Better than Propagating in Soil

I have personally experimented with the various methods for propagating monstera (air layering, stem cuttings in water and soil and division) and can confidentially say from experience that propagation from stem cuttings into water is the easiest and most reliable way to successfully propagate monstera plants.

Whilst you can propagate monstera into potting soil just fine, I prefer propagating into a clear jar of water as water-propagated roots grow quicker. With a transparent vessel, you can see the health of the roots and how large they are.

This is in contrast to cuttings growing potting medium, which may develop root rot, but you would only be able to tell when the foliage starts turning yellow and dying, at which point it is difficult to save.

The longer your monstera stays as a cutting without roots the more vulnerable it is dying due to a lack of nutrients. The roots develop much faster in water compared to soil, so the monstera can establish much quicker and sustain itself, which is why the rate of success is higher when propagating in water compared to soil.

What is the Best Time of Year for Monstera Propagation?

You can propagate monstera in water from cuttings at any time of year. However, it should be noted that you are more likely to succeed during Spring and Summer as the roots grow more quickly. Therefore, the monstera can be transferred to a potting medium and established in a shorter time frame.

If you are trying to propagate a cutting in Winter, then the roots may take too long to form due to cooler temperatures and lower light intensity.

However, I have personally propagated my Monstera cuttings in the Fall/Winter months of October, November, and December. The key to propagating in Winter is to locate the cuttings in the brightest room in your house and keep the leaves misted to increase humidity to replicate the conditions of its natural environment.

The roots take a week or two longer to form, but all the cuttings I took in Winter successfully propagated.

Can You Propagate from Just a Leaf?

To propagate monstera from a cutting, you have to cut the stem below a node, as new roots only form from a node. A leaf-cutting without a node will not be able to form roots, causing it to shrivel up and rot as it cannot take up water or nutrients.

Here is how to identify a node and, therefore, the best place to take a cutting…

Where to Cut Monstera for Propagation?

The best place to cut a monstera for propagation is a few center meters below the node, as shown in the photo below, where I have placed the blade. It is essential to cut below the node as this is where the roots will form, so if you cut above this point, the plant will not form roots and die.

As you can see in my photo, I am taking a cutting with an aerial root just above the node.

Whilst it is still possible to propagate monstera cuttings without aerial roots, I have found through trial and error that cuttings with an aerial root have a significantly higher success rate than those without.

This is because the aerial roots form many side roots very quickly when placed in water, so your monstera can begin drawing up moisture and nutrients to sustain itself so it can be established before rotting.

The photo above shows the best place to cut the monstera, as I am making the cut almost an inch below the node with an aerial root attached. This gives the monstera lots of space to form new roots quickly. My cutting that I took for this photo also has 3 leaves.

Important tip: Always select a stem that has at least one leaf on it.

I personally prefer to take cuttings with 2 or 3 leaves because it is the leaves that photosynthesize and provide your cutting with the energy to form new roots, which is an energy-intensive process.

I find 2 or 3 leaves is the sweet spot as with only one leaf, the roots develop slower, but with 4 or more leaves, the success rate for propagation seems to drop as the demand for moisture and nutrients is higher, and the roots may not develop fast enough to sustain the cutting.

My Step-by-Step Monstera Propagation in Water Guide

1. Select your stem cutting (ideally with an aerial root) with around 2 or 3 healthy-looking leaves and cut below the node with a clean pair of pruners or pruning blade. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of sterilizing the blade (with a cloth soaked in disinfectant), as unclean blades can transfer bacteria and fungal infections that turn the cutting mushy.
2. Let the end of the cutting dry out for about 2 hours. This allows the end to partially callous over, which is another step that I have found to reduce the risk of fungal or bacterial disease entering the cutting.
3. Treat the wound with an anti-fungal ingredient to prevent disease. I personally recommend using either cinnamon or unpasteurized honey (both of which work effectively as an inexpensive fungicide treatment) to treat the wound on the bottom of the cutting and on the mother plant.
4. Dip the cutting in melted candle wax to prevent rot. Whilst this step isn’t 100% necessary, I usually recommend doing this if you are propagating an expensive variegated variety of monstera, as sealing off the end is the ultimate way to ensure your cutting doesn’t succumb to bacterial infection. I just lit a tea candle and waited for the wax to cool slightly, yet still be in liquid form and dipped the end of my cutting in. I love to do this because it is so easy; every time I see a monstera cutting with black rot, I always think it’s so unnecessary as this prevents that problem!

5. Use hormone rooting powder to cover the aerial root. This step is optional, but I recommend doing it as rooting powder is inexpensive and, in my experience, stimulates the growth of roots much more quickly, which increases the success rate of propagation.

6. Place the cutting in a clear vessel (a jam jar or clear plastic jug works well) and fill up the jar so that the node and the aerial root are submerged. Ensuring the node is underwater stimulates the roots to grow. Here is a photo of how much the new roots have grown in one week on my cutting:

7. Leave the monstera in a bright, warm room to increase the growth rate of new roots. Normal room temperature is great for propagation, but studies have shown monstera cuttings grow faster in temperatures of 30°C (86°F). I personally locate my cuttings in a room with a South facing (out of direct sunlight) with lots of bright light so that the leaves can photosynthesize and the roots can grow quickly.

8. Change the water every 3 or 4 days. It is essential to change the water every so often as stagnant water in bright light and warm temperatures can increase bacterial growth, which can harm your monstera cutting.

9. After 3 weeks, the roots should be at least 3 inches long, which is the optimal length to move your cutting from water to soil. Here is a photo of my monstera cutting’s roots after 3 weeks in water:

10. Find a pot large enough to accommodate your monstera’s roots and prepare your potting mixture. In my experience, a potting mix of 80% compost and 20% orchid potting mix works best as this provides the right balance of moisture retention and good drainage.

11. Create the optimal growing environment for your propagated cutting. Keep it at room temperature and away from draughts or air currents that may lower humidity. As the roots have initially developed in an aquatic environment, it is important not to let the potting medium dry out completely in the first year of growth. However, I recommend watering when the top inch of the potting medium has begun to dry out to meet the water requirements of the monstera without risking root rot.

Why I Think You Should Use Rooting Hormone Powder When Propagating Monstera

Whilst it is not necessary to use hormone-rooting powder as Monstera propagates easily in the right conditions, I still personally recommend it.

I performed an experiment where I took 6 cuttings from various monstera plants. I applied hormone rooting powder at the base of 3 cuttings before propagation and propagated 3 cuttings without the powder.

Whilst all 6 cuttings developed roots, the cuttings with hormone rooting powder grew their roots much quicker they reached 3 inches long in about 2 weeks, whereas the cutting without powder took about 3 and a half weeks to reach 3 inches.

Whilst this difference may seem trivial at first, I noticed the plants that were propagated with hormone-rooting powder established more in their first year of growth with greater resilience and much larger leaves that had a greater number of fenestrations (holes) than those without the powder,

Therefore, I have personally found that the rooting powder can really give a cutting a significant head start and increase the success rate of your plants.

I received a question from Susan in the comments of this article asking…

Hi, Mark,

Is there a root hormone powder that you can recommend?

Thanks very much,
Susan

I thought I’d incoporate this into the article as I realized I hadn’t addressed it and i’m sure some of you are going to be interested…I use rooting powder from a company called ‘DOFF’ which is great.

As I explained to Susan in the comments, whenever I talk to any growing experts and houseplant specilist they always recommend this brand for rooting hormone powder and I can personally attest that it really does increase the rate of growth of the roots of the houseplants and Mediterannean herbs which I use ot every year.

Troubleshooting Common Problems with Monstera Cuttings:

The key reason why I prefer propagating monstera cuttings in water, as opposed to soil is that you can see the condition of the node and developing roots and make adjustments to the environment if they look unwell.

My Propagated Cutting Turning Black and Rotten?

If your cutting is rooting and turning black, then this is typically because of a bacterial or fungal infection that has entered the cutting via the wound at the bottom where you actually made the cut. Often cutting turns black and mushy.

The most common reasons for infection entering the wound are because of…

• The cut was made with a blade that had not been sterilized, and infection had transferred from the blade.
• The water has not been changed often enough, and bacteria have developed in the stagnant water and infected the cutting.

The reason I recommend taking a cutting as far below a node as possible is that if the end of your cutting does turn black and rot, you can cut off the rotting section of the cutting and still have space for roots to grow. However, if the entirety of the node has turned black and mushy, then the cutting cannot be saved.

You can prevent your cutting from becoming infected by sterilizing the blade before cutting, allowing it to dry slightly, and dipping it in melted candle wax to seal off the end and prevent infection from getting into the cutting before placing it in water.

Why is my Monstera Cutting Not Rooting?

Monstera takes about 3 weeks to root in water, with small white roots visible in just a week. If your cutting is not growing roots, this may be cause you did not cut below a node. The roots can only develop from a node, and a leaf with a stem is incapable of developing roots.

However, if you have made the cutting in the right place and the cutting is still not rooting, then the leaves can turn yellow and die as they are not able to take up the moisture or nutrients.

There is not much you can do when this happens; therefore, it is better to provide the optimal growing conditions to increase the growth rate of the roots so that the cutting can sustain itself.

My Top Tips To Get Your Monstera Cutting to Root Successfully:

• Take a cutting with an aerial root, as this develops side shoots very quickly, which are capable of drawing up water and nutrients.

• Use a cutting with 2 or 3 leaves, which provides the cutting with the energy to grow new roots.
• Use hormone rooting powder on the node and any aerial roots that stimulate the development of roots.
• Place the cutting in a warm, sunny room with lots of bright light to increase the speed at which the roots develop.
• Take the cutting during Spring or Summer as the roots grow much more quickly when the monstera plant is in active growth. If you take a cutting in the Winter, ensure the temperature is relatively warm and I find supplementing with a grow light can really help the cuttings to root.
• Wait until the roots are at least 3 inches long before transferring your water cutting to a potting mix. Use a potting mix of 80% soil and 20% orchid potting bark or perlite for added drainage.
• Always dust your monstera leaves regularly! I dust mine every 2 weeks with a damp cloth, and I can tell you it makes a real difference in terms of growth rate. If we think about it for a moment. Your propagated monstera needs all the energy it can get from the leaves via photosynthesis to grow its new root system. The dust inhibits light from reaching the leaf properly and reduces the rate of growth. Propagation is a race between rooting and rotting, so we want to give our cutting every chance to root before rot sets in!

Do you have any specific problems with your monstera? If so, read my related articles:

• How to Grow and Care for Monstera Deliciosa
• How to Revive a Dying Monstera Deliciosa
• How to Save a Monstera with Brown Leaves
• Why are my Monstera Leaves Curling?
• How to Water Monstera Deliciosa

The best way to keep your calathea happy is to mimic some of the conditions of their native environment in your own home. Sounds tricky, right? It is much easier than it sounds, so keep reading my article for all you need to know!

Here is a summary of the care instructions for growing calathea plants indoors:

About Calathea

Calathea are native to the rainforests of Brazil, where they thrive in bright indirect light under a tree canopy and grow in moist yet well-draining soil.

Due to the striking appearance of their leaves, they have many names, such as the peacock plant, rattlesnake plant, and zebra plant.

Calathea is a relatively slow-growing plant, but you can expect it to grow to a maximum size of 28 inches (70 cm) indoors if you get the care right.

To increase a calatheas growth rate, ensure it is in a room with bright light, apply a fertilizer, and wipe the leaves frequently with a damp cloth to remove dust which can prevent photosynthesis.

Calathea plants are safe for pets around the home.

It is pronounced with 4 syllables as “KAL” + “uh” + “THEE” + “uh”.

Are Calathea Easy to Grow?

Calathea can be pretty tricky for beginners to grow as they are quite specific about their preferred environment when indoors.

To grow calathea indoors successfully, we need to think about how they grow in their native environment and recreate some of these conditions indoors.

Calathea Light Requirements

Calathea grows naturally under a canopy out of direct sunlight, so recreate these conditions by placing your calathea in bright indirect light when indoors. Direct sunlight scorches the leaves brown, whereas too much shade causes poor, leggy growth that droops.

I personally find the best results when growing my calathea in a room with a south-facing window so the room is brightly lit but with the plant set back from any direct light.

I have found that the brighter light has increased the growth rate and also made the variegation on the leaves stand out more.

It should be noted that in direct sunlight, the color can fade and look washed out before scorching, which is due to how sensitive the leaves are in direct sunlight.

Pro tip: Is your calathea leaning to one side? In my experience, calathea plants look better if you rotate the plant by 90 degrees every time you water, to create more even well-distributed growth.

What is the Best Indoor Temperature and Humidity for Calatheas?

The optimal temperature for growth is between 65°F and 75°F (18°C and 24°C), calathea can tolerate temperatures as low as 55°F (13°C) in Winter, but growth will be much slower, and the plant needs less watering.

Calathea are native to tropical forests, and therefore, I find it is necessary to increase the humidity when caring for calathea indoors to prevent them from turning brown.

The best method for doing this, in my experience, is to fill a saucer of water underneath the calathea’s pot and prop the calathea above the water line with pebbles. The constant evaporation from the saucer of water creates a humid indoor micro-climate that replicates the conditions in the calathea’s natural habitat and prevents the leaves from drying out.

3 other methods for increasing humidity that I find successful are:

• Misting the leaves with water every few days.
• Buying a plant humidifier to control the humidity.
• Placing the calathea in a naturally humid room such as a bathroom.

I love to grow calathea in bathrooms as they are often brightly lit and have consistent humidity. Frosted glass and sheer curtains that are common in bathrooms also help to diffuse sunlight, which helps protect the leaves from damage.

As the temperature gets cooler, the need for humidity is much greater, so if the calathea is in a cold, draughty room, then make sure you take steps to increase the humidity.

Avoid placing calathea plants next to any sources of indoor heating and out of the air current of air conditioning, as this can sap moisture from the leaves.

How Often Should You Water Calathea?

Calathea needs the top 2 inches of the soil to dry between each bout of watering. Typically, this means watering once a week in Spring and Summer and once every 2 weeks in Winter. If the soil dries out completely, the leaf edges turn brown, whereas if the soil is too damp, the calathea develops root rot.

I personally recommend using your finger to judge when the top 2 inches of the soil is dry as I find this method is more reliable than moisture meters. If the soil is still damp, then delay watering your calathea until the top 2 inches feel dry.

I find the best way to water calathea is to water from the bottom by placing the pot in a tray of water for 20 minutes to allow the potting soil to draw up moisture. This ensures that the potting mix is evenly moist so the calathea’s roots can access the moisture they need.

Why You Should Use Rainwater Rather than Tap Water

Avoid watering with tap water if you live in a hard water area and use rainwater instead. Calathea is sensitive to minerals and chemicals (such as chlorine) in the water, which can turn the leaves brown.

If rainwater is difficult to acquire, then I recommend leaving a vessel of tap water out for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate, after which it is safe to water your calathea.

Repotting

Re-pot calatheas every 1 or 2 years into a pot that is only 2 inches larger in diameter than the previous pot. Always re-pot calathea in the Spring, as this is when they are most resilient to transplant stress.

If you repot into a much larger pot, then the soil dries out too slowly for the calathea to tolerate.

My personal favorite pot for calathea plants is a terracotta or clay pot as they are breathable, which allows the soil to dry out more evenly, whereas plastic pots are impermeable and can retain water for too long around the rootball.

However, you can re-pot calathea in any pot as long as it has a drainage hole in the base and it is proportionate to the size of the plant.

What Kind of Soil Do Calathea Plants Need?

Calathea needs a well-draining potting mix of around 80% houseplant soil and 20% perlite or pine bark-based orchid potting mix. The added perlite or bark creates the porous structure to hold enough moisture to meet the calathea’s water requirements whilst also being well drained to avoid root rot.

I have found you can grow calathea well in normal potting soil as long as you carefully monitor the leaves of moisture in the soil and be mindful that it is likely to dry out at a slower rate.

I would personally recommend amending the soil to be on the safe side.

Fertilizer

For best results, I recommend using a general liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month in the Spring and Summer months. Always use the fertilizer at half strength as the calathea’s roots are sensitive and can be damaged by too much fertilizer at a high concentration.

Whilst a calathea can survive without fertilizer (particularly if you re-pot it every year), I personally recommend fertilizer as the leaves of my calathea are larger and have vibrant variegation with regular fertilizer in the Spring and Summer.

Calathea that does not have any fertilizer applied tends to have poor growth.

How Do You Care for Calathea in Winter?

With the right care, the calathea’s leaves should stay green and healthy during Winter.

The three most important factors for caring for calathea plants in Winter are:

1. Increase the humidity with regular misting. Whilst I prefer to increase the humidity by using a tray with water underneath the pot, I also mist the leaves every other day to counteract the dry air from indoor heating.
2. Reduce watering to once every 2 weeks. With fewer hours of sunshine, the calathea’s demand for moisture decreases significantly, so only water once every 2 weeks to avoid root rot. Feel the soil to detect when the top 2 inches of potting mix have dried before watering again.
3. Keep temperatures above 55°F (13°C). If the temperature decreases too much, this tropical plant can turn brown and die back, so move it to a warmer room.

It is also essential that you avoid using fertilizer in Fall and Winter whilst the plant is dormant.

Is Calathea Toxic to Cats and Dogs?

Calathea plants are not toxic to cats, dogs, or humans, according to the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals). Although, from experience, my cat has attempted to claw at the leaves, so I still recommend keeping calathea plants away from pets!

Related articles:

If your calathea is turning brown, read my article, How to Revive a Dying Calathea.

Snake plants are, in my opinion (aka mother-in-law’s tongue), amongst the easiest houseplants to grow as long as you understand how to replicate their natural growing conditions. How to achieve this? My article outlines all the essential steps!

Here is a table summarizing how to grow and care for snake plants indoors:

About Snake Plants

Snake plants (Dracaena trifasciata) are succulents native to West Africa, growing in dry tropical biomes, and thrive in rocky, dry areas with well-draining soil and infrequent rainfall.

Like most succulents, snake plants are well adapted to tolerate long periods of drought as they are capable of storing moisture reserves in their leaves and rhizomes.

Snake plants are very easy to care for as they can go for weeks without watering, grow in full sun or part shade, and tolerate fluctuations of humidity and temperature from indoor heating without suffering any adverse effects.

Snake plants are relatively slow-growing, but you can expect your plant to grow to a height of around 39 inches (1 meter) indoors in optimal conditions.

Snake plants flower in Summer in their native environment but rarely flower when they are grown indoors as a houseplant.

Did you know that, according to a NASA study, snake plants can help remove harmful indoor pollutants and purify the air?

How Much Light Do Snake Plants Need?

Snake plants prefer to grow in full sun but can tolerate partial sun and still grow. Snake plants can still grow in bright, indirect light, but the rate of growth slows significantly, and they are far less likely to flower.

Pro tip: From experience, I find that snake plants grown in a northern latitude with less intense sunlight can grow on a window sill in full sun throughout the year, whereas if you live in a much hotter Southern climate with more intense sunshine, then the snake plant can slightly scorch brown due to a combination of sun and heat stress.

So, if you live in an area such as Southern California, I would recommend moving your snake plant preemptively to an area of your home with morning sun with shade in midday and afternoon to prevent scorching the snake plant.

Best Temperature and Humidity for Growing Snake Plants Indoors

As snake plants are natively to hot and dry tropical climates, they can easily tolerate indoor room temperatures with a preferred range of between 65°F and 90°F (18°C and 32°C). Snake plants are tolerant of indoor heating but cannot endure temperatures lower than 55 degrees.

I personally move my snake plant from my window sill in the Winter as the glass is significantly colder than the ambient temperature of the room, which creates a cold microclimate at night that can harm the snake plant.

Snake plants are my personal houseplant of choice for air-conditioned rooms as they can tolerate the fluctuation in temperature and humidity far better than other popular houseplants!

You do not have to make any special provisions for snake plants when it comes to humidity as it is well adapted to living in dry air when indoors.

How Often to Water Snake Plants?

Water snake plants once every 2 weeks in the Summer and once every 4 weeks in the Winter. Snake plants are drought-resistant succulents specifically adapted to storing moisture, so they do not need to be watered as often as most houseplants.

I must emphasize it is important to let the soil dry out completely between each bout of watering to prevent root rot.

My Best Method for Watering Snake Plants

If you are unsure about watering, the best method that I use to determine whether the soil is dry around the roots is to feel the soil at the bottom through the drainage hole in the base of the pot. If the soil is still moist, then delay watering until it feels completely dry, then give it a good soak.

I find this method is far more accurate than using moisture meters which I find are not reliable enough.

I prefer watering snake pants from the bottom by filling the saucer underneath the pot with water and letting it stand for half an hour. Watering at the bottom ensures the potting soil is evenly moist around the rootball.

Whilst snake plants can be watered from the top, sometimes the potting mix can become hydrophobic when it dries out, causing it to repel off the surface and down the side of the pot without infiltrating the soil properly and reaching the roots where it is required.

How Do You Know if a Snake Plant is Over or Under Watered?

Snake plants have adapted to harsh, arid environments by storing moisture in their leaves, so they are unlikely to suffer from underwatering.

However, the symptoms of underwatering are:

• The leaves look significantly thinner as the snake plant has depleted its water reserves.
• The leaves start to droop.

Whereas the symptoms of overwatering are:

• The leaves turn yellow or brown.
• The leaves feel mushy and soft.
• Drooping leaves.

I can tell you from personal experience it is far easier to revive an underwatered snake plant rather than an overwatered plant, so if in doubt, always delay watering.

How Often to Repot Snake Plants?

Snake plants are relatively slow-growing, so you can re-pot them once every 3 or 4 years. I find the roots do not mind being pot-bound for a year or two; however, if the roots are visible above the soil surface, then this is a good time to repot your snake plant.

Always re-pot snake plants in the Spring, as this is when they are most resilient to the stress of repotting.

When repotting, it is crucial to use a pot that is only one pot size bigger (2 inches larger in diameter) to avoid ‘over potting,’ which can cause the soil to dry out too slowly for snake plants to tolerate.

What are The Best Pots for Snake Plants?

My personal favorite pots for growing snake plants are clay pots as they are porous which allows the potting medium to dry more evenly between bouts of watering and helps to prevent root rot. Plastic pots are impermeable, which can retain too much moisture around the snake plant’s roots.

However, it is possible to grow snake plants in any pot as long as there are drainage holes in the base. Still, if you have problems growing succulents (like a lot of people do!), then I would always recommend that you plant your snake plant in a breathable terracotta or clay pot.

What is the Best Potting Soil for Indoor Snake Plants?

Always use a well-draining potting medium when repotting snake plants, such as a specialized ‘succulent and cacti potting soil’ which contains grit and perlite to create a porous texture and well-draining structure that replicates the snake plant’s native soil in its natural habitat.

I would caution you against using unamended potting soil, as this dries out too slowly and increases the risk of root rot. In my years of working in a garden center, the number 1 cause of dying succulents is always damp soil (due to overwatering or poor drainage), so always amend your potting soil for healthy snake plants!

Best Fertilizer for Snake Plants?

It is not strictly necessary to use any fertilizer when growing snake plants as they have specifically adapted to growing in nutrient-poor rocky soils, and the use of normal houseplant fertilizer can actually be harmful.

However, when I used to work at a commercial garden nursery, we used to use ‘succulent and cacti fertilizer’ which has all the nutrients the snake plant needs at the right concentration to boost growth.

The fertilizer, along with bright light with some direct sunlight, significantly increased the rate of growth of all the snake plants.

How to Care for Snake Plants Care in Winter?

The rate at which snake plants grow significantly decreases in Winter, which means there is less demand for water and nutrients.

My top tips for caring for indoor snake plants in Winter:

• Water once every 4 weeks. Snake plants are more likely to suffer from root rot due to overwatering during Winter, as the roots draw up water much more slowly due to the lower rate of growth. Always check to see if the soil has dried before watering.
• Keep the temperature above 55°F (13°C). Snake plants do not tolerate cold temperatures for long periods, so move your snake plant to a warmer spot in Winter.
• Ensure the snake plant has enough light. If you live in a northern latitude, I recommend moving your snake plant to a south-facing window, creating the right conditions for your plant to thrive.

Related posts:

• How to Revive a Dying Snake Plant.
• How to Water Snake Plants.
• How to Save a Drooping Snake Plant.
• How to Save a Snake Plant with Yellow Leaves.

Out of all the most popular houseplants, I have found ZZ plants are the easiest to care for and are better adapted to indoor life then any other plant!

About ZZ Plants

ZZ plants (Zamioculcas zamiifolia aka emerald palm) are native to East Africa, growing primarily in Kenya, Malawi, and Mozambique, and thrive in seasonally dry tropical biomes.

ZZ plants have specifically adapted to growing in dry conditions with thick waxy leaves that reduce transpiration and thick stems and rhizomes that store moisture to survive periods of drought.

You can expect your ZZ plants to grow to a maximum height of 1 meter (3 feet) at maturity, but they typically grow very slowly and take many years to reach this height, which is another adaptation to growing in an environment with fewer readily available resources.

I have seen ZZ plants grow as little as only 4 inches a year, but this depends on light and fertilizer.

Did you know there is also scientific evidence that ZZ plants can also help purify the air in your home?

Are ZZ Plants Easy to Care For?

In my experience, ZZ plants are the easiest houseplants to care for as they thrive on neglect. ZZ plants can go for months without water, grow in full shade, and even cope with being pot-bound without suffering adverse effects. ZZ plants are the ultimate low-maintenance houseplants for beginners.

I have even known people to forget to water their ZZ plants for 3 months whilst living in flicking artificial light that the leaves appeared green!

What are the Light Requirements for ZZ Plants?

The best for a ZZ plant is in a room with lots of bright, indirect light. ZZ plants scorch brown in direct sunlight, so do not place it on a sunny window sill. ZZ plants can also grow in shadier rooms, although the rate of growth will be much slower.

I personally have my ZZ plant in a south-facing room, set back from the window so it can benefit from the bright light without encountering scorching direct sunlight, and it is thriving.

Pro tip: I personally recommend rotating your ZZ plant by 1/4 every time you water to prevent the plant from growing sideways. ZZ plants always grow towards the strongest source of light, which can cause excessive sideways growth.

You can move your ZZ plant outdoors in the Summer so it can benefit from brighter light and more hours of sunlight. However, it is vital to move the ZZ plant back indoors if the temperature at night is forecast to dip below 60°F (15°C), as cold temperatures can harm tropical plants.

Wipe the glossy leaves with a damp cloth every few months as the leaves can gather dust. This helps increase photosynthesis and increase the growth rate of the plant.

How Often to Water Your ZZ Plant

Water ZZ plants every 2 weeks in the Summer and once every 4 weeks in the Winter. ZZ plants in bright, warmer rooms have a much higher demand for water than plants grown in deep shade. Always allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry between bouts of watering.

How do you determine the optimal water frequency for your ZZ plant? I find the best way to establish whether your ZZ plant needs watering is to test the soil with your finger to a depth of 2 inches. If the soil feels dry, then this is the perfect time to water. If you can detect any moisture, delay watering your plant until it is dry.

I personally pick my ZZ plant pot up periodically after watering to assess the weight and, therefore, the rate at which the soil is drying out as a way to tell when the plant needs watering.

I would personally recommend not using a moisture meter as I have used a lot of them over the years and find they are not always accurate. Given the ZZ plant’s sensitivity to overwatering, an inaccurate reading that does not reliably indicate when the soil is dry could cause the plant to die if the soil is damp for too long.

What is the Best Way to Water ZZ Plants?

In my experience, the best way to water ZZ plants is to either water from the bottom or submerge the rootball in a basin of lukewarm water for 20 minutes before removing and allowing excess water to drain away.

You can water successfully by watering from the top, as you would most plants, as long as you soak the soil and ensure that it is evenly moist.

The reason I find it is best to water from the bottom is because, as ZZ plants do not need frequent watering, the potting soil can dry out and bake hard due to heat and sunlight. This causes the soil to turn hydrophobic and repels water off the surface of the soil without infiltrating properly and reaching the roots where it is required.

Filling a saucer underneath the pot and watering from the bottom allows the soil to draw up moisture more evenly, which ensures the roots can access the water they need.

I must emphasize it is important to empty any saucers or trays underneath the pot of excess water after 30 minutes or so, as perpetually damp soil causes root rot.

What are the Signs of Overwatering?

• Drooping foliage.
• A bad smell coming from the roots and potting soil.
• The leaves can turn yellow or brown (depending on the extent of the overwatering).
• The stems develop a soft, mushy texture.
• Reduced rate of growth.

Your ZZ plant is far more likely to suffer from overwatering the underwatering. Reduce watering immediately, allowing the soil to dry out between bouts of watering.

What are the Signs of Underwatering?

• Wilting foliage.
• The stems appear thinner and shriveled.
• Leaves appear yellow.
• The pot feels light.

If you suspect the ZZ plant is underwater, then place the pot in a basin of water for 20 minutes so the soil can properly hydrate.

(If you have any problems with your ZZ plant, read my article, How to Revive a Dying ZZ Plant).

Temperature and Humidity for ZZ Plants

ZZ plants are native to Kenya and prefer warm temperatures, with 59°F to 100°F (15°C to 38°C) being optimal for growth. The cooler the temperature, the slower the rate of growth. ZZ plants cannot tolerate cold, so move your plant to a warm location if the temperature drops below 50°F (10°C).

ZZ plants can cope with warm temperatures very well and do not mind being next to radiators or other indoor sources of heat. They also cope very well in air-conditioned rooms as they enjoy low humidity.

There is no need to mist ZZ plants, but I have found they cope well with a range of humidity, as one of my ZZ plants grows well in a relatively humid bathroom.

How Often Should You Repot Your ZZ Plants?

ZZ plants are relatively slow-growing, so they only need repotting every 2 to 3 years. ZZ plants tolerate being root-bound, but they do need repotting if you can see roots protruding from the soil. Always re-pot ZZ plants in the Spring.

I have personally found the ZZ plants that I keep in brighter rooms and fertilize more often need to be repotted every other year, whereas ZZ plants kept in a shady office space without much light can go 3 or 4 years without repotting.

Best Pots For ZZ Plants

The best pots for ZZ plants are terracotta pots as they are breathable and allow the potting soil to dry out more evenly, whereas ceramic or plastic pots are impermeable, which means the soil dries out more slowly around the ZZ plant’s roots.

Terracotta pots are my personal favorite pots for repotting ZZ plants. However, ZZ plants can grow in any pot so long as there are drainage holes in the base.

I recommend avoiding plastic pots as they can be too light in weight. ZZ plants are tall plants and can become top-heavy, meaning a light plastic pot is more likely to topple.

What Kind of Soil Do ZZ Plants Need?

ZZ plants naturally grow in stony soils in their natural habitat with fast drainage and low fertility. Therefore, to grow ZZ plants successfully, it is important to recreate these conditions by planting them in a potting mix of 80% potting soil with 20% perlite.

The perlite increases the porosity of the soil, which creates space for moisture to drain efficiently and also decreases the fertility of the soil (as perlite does not contribute nutrients to the soil), thus effectively replicating the preferred soil conditions in the ZZ plant’s natural habitat.

You can substitute the perlite with horticultural grit or sand if necessary. I have found this works equally as well.

The Best Fertilizer for ZZ Plants

ZZ plants are used to relatively low-fertility soil, but you can increase the growth rate and size of the leaves by fertilizing once a month in the Spring and Summer.

Use a fertilizer an ordinary houseplant fertilizer at a half concentration as full-strength fertilizer is designed for plants that are accustomed to high fertility soils with faster growth rates then ZZ plants.

This is the fertilizer that I personally use.

Pruning: How and When to Prune Your ZZ Plant

There is no pressing need to prune your ZZ plant every year, particularly as they are relatively slow-growing. However, if you do want to reduce the size of the ZZ plant, prune back the branches in the spring to a desired size with a sharp pair of pruners.

My ZZ plant grows around 4 inches per year and I have only pruned it back once slightly in 4 years.

What I have found from my experience working in a garden center is that how quickly and how often you need to prune directly correlates with how brightly lit the room is and whether or not you use fertilizer as I have observed some ZZ Plants grow very slowly in dimly lit offices that have never needed pruning.

Spring is the best time for pruning ZZ plants as this is when it is most resilient to stress, but you can prune successfully at any time of the year.

Is the ZZ Plant Toxic to Cats and Dogs?

Zamioculcas zamiifolia is toxic to cats and dogs and contains insoluble calcium oxalates, which can cause irritation to your cats and dog’s mouths if ingested, so I would either keep it out of harm’s way or look for another houseplant if your pets have a habit of consuming houseplants.

I would recommend spider plants if you are looking for a good, safe, pet-friendly houseplant.

How do You Propagate ZZ Plants?

ZZ Plants can be propagated from both leaf and stem cuttings. The best time of year to propagate is in the Spring as the cuttings are far more likely to develop roots quickly when they are in active growth, although can can propagate at any time of year you may have a lower rate of success.

I personally have had the most success by propagating from a stem cutting into water in the Spring.

I find it is best to take a cutting of at least 6 inches and strip the leaves off the bottom half, submerging the bottom 3 inches in water (using a jam jar).

The cuttings usually develop roots that are around 3 inches long within 4 weeks, at which point you can transfer the cutting to a potting mix of 80% compost to 20% perlite and care as normal.

Here is a helpful YouTube video for a visual guide to propagation:

With their unique appearance and quirky adaptations to their arid environment, String of Pearls plants are one of my favourite houseplants and my favourite thing about them? They are very easy to care for!

Here is a summary of How to Care for String of Pearls:

About String of Pearls Plants (Curio rowleyanus, syn. Senecio rowleyanus)

String of pearls plants are succulents that are native to South Africa that thrive in rocky, shallow soils with infrequent rainfall.

The plant has specifically adapted to growing leaves in the shape of pearls as a way to store as much moisture as possible whilst reducing the surface area from which to lose moisture to transpiration to cope with arid conditions and dry soils.

String of pearls is one of my favourite houseplants because of their unique appearance, ability to cascade elegantly from their pots, and because they are one of the easiest houseplants to care for if you’re a beginner, tolerating a wide temperature range and low humidity whilst being able to thrive.

The more mature string of pearl plants produces sweetly fragranced white flowers in Winter (although I find that plant has to be in a very bright spot, or you need to use a grow light to promote flowering).

Water String of Pearls Once Every 2 Weeks

Water your string of pearls plants once every 2 weeks in the Spring and Summer months and once every 3 to 4 weeks in the Fall and Winter.

The soil must dry out completely between each bout of watering to avoid problems such as root rot.

I personally think the easiest way to tell whether your string of pearls needs water or not is to feel the soil at the bottom of the pot through the drainage hole in the base. If the soil still feels damp, then delay watering, but if the soil feels completely dry, then give it a good soak.

As string of pearls are drought-resistant plants, they are far more likely to die from overwatering than underwatering, so if you are in any doubt, give it a few more days before watering.

In my experience, I find the best way to water my string of pearls from the top rather than water from the bottom as the string of pearls actually has quite a shallow root system, therefore watering at the top allows the roots to access the moisture it needs.

(Related: Read my article on How to Water String of Pearls for tips on how to tell if you are underwatering or overwatering).

Strings of Pearls Plants Need Bright Indirect Light

Locate your string of pearls plant in an area of bright indirect light rather than in full sun or shade. Direct sunlight scorches the leaves brown, whereas too much shade causes the vines to grow leggy with fewer leaves..

I personally grow my string of pearl plants in a room with a south-facing window so they get lots of bright light, but I set the plants back away from the window sill, away from scorching sunlight at midday.

If you are living in a northern latitude (such as New York) with shorter days in the Winter, then I find the best window for your string of pearls is a South-East facing window.

This allows the plant to benefit from the gentle morning sun and shade it from harsher light in the midday and afternoon which can cause the pearls to turn brown.

Important tip: I have found that moving the string of pearls plant in Winter to a brighter window sill prevents the vines from growing leggy.

I also recommend growing a string of pearls on a South-facing window sill if you have a sheer curtain to provide diffused light.

I spin the pot around 90 degrees monthly to ensure even growth.

What is the Best Temperature Range for a String of Pearls Plants?

String of pearl plants are very comfortable at room temperature, with 60°F to 75°F (16°C to 24°C) being optimal for growth.

String of pearls plants can tolerate temperatures as cold as 50°F in the Winter but have a preferred temperature range of 55°F to 65°F in Winter.

Cold temperatures can damage the plant and cause the pearls to turn mushy, so if you grow a string of pearls outside during Summer, ensure that you take the plant indoors if the night temperature does dip below 50°F.

I have personally found that my string of pearls cope very well with heated rooms indoors and even tolerate the low humidity that comes with it.

The only note of caution that I would advise is to move it away from being directly next to a fireplace or radiator as this can dry out the potting soil very quickly.

If you live in a cold climate, then I recommend you move the string of pearls off a window sill at night, as I have found the microclimate next to the cold glass can cause the pearls to turn black.

Re-pot String of Pearls Every 3 or 4 years

String of pearls plants are relatively slow growing compared to most houseplants, therefore they only require repotting every 3 or 4 years.

Their root system tends to be shallow, so there is no need to plant it into a deep pot.

Re-pot your string of pearls into a pot that is around 2 inches larger in diameter than the previous pot—repotting into a large pot risks ‘over potting’, which can cause the soil to dry out too slowly.

In my opinion, the best planters for string of pearls plants are terracotta or clay pots as they are breathable and allow the soil to dry more evenly between bouts of watering, whereas plastic or ceramic pots retain more moisture which can cause root rot.

You can successfully grow a string of pearls in plastic or glazed pots if you closely monitor soil moisture levels, but if you have trouble with succulent plants, then I strongly recommend porous clay or terracotta pots, as I have found this is a very effective way to mitigate root rot.

Always plant a string of pearls in a pot with a drainage hole in the base.

‘Succulent and Cacti’ soil is the best soil for String of Pearls Plants

As string of pearl plants grow in gritty soils in their native environment, it is important to recreate these conditions with the potting soil.

I personally use a pre-made succulent and cacti gritty soil mix when I repot my string of pearls and other succulents.

It is important to avoid repotting in normal potting soil as this is too dense and retains too much water for the string of pearls root system to tolerate, resulting in root rot and a dying plant.

The added grit in the soil promotes good drainage and allows oxygen to circulate around the roots for effective root respiration.

Use Fertilizer Every Month During the Growing Season

String of pearls are adapted to growing in low-nutrient soils and, therefore, do not require much fertilizer. I have personally seen great results when using fertilizer with my string of pearls creating larger leaves and increasing the rate of growth.

Use a special succulent and cacti fertilizer in the Spring and Summer once every month this provides your plant with all the nutrients it needs at the right concentration.

I would caution against using any general houseplant fertilizer as it is formulated to a concentration for larger leaf house plants such as Monstera rather than your string of pearls plant.

Only use the fertilizer in the Spring and Summer rather than fall and Winter.

How to Make String of Pearls Fuller

A common problem that I see when growing a string of pearl plants is that the pearls may look small or the pearls get more sparse along the vines. Sometimes, the pearls at the base of the plant nearest the soil also die back, giving the plant a less desirable appearance.

This happened to my first string of pearls plant.

To counteract this effect, I have several steps to make your string of pearls look fuller which worked for me:

• Spin the plant 90 degrees every time you water. This ensures that all areas of your pearl are exposed to the strongest source of light for a period during the growing season. More sunlight means more energy to sustain each pearl preventing the vines from being sparse.
• Use a grow light in Winter to supplement the sunlight. If you live in a northern latitude with fewer hours of daylight, then a grow light can provide the pearls with the extra energy they need at the darker times of year to keep the plant growing and the pearls large.
• Use a succulent and cacti fertilizer. This step is more important if you have a larger, more mature string of pearls plant as the roots may exhaust the potting medium of nutrients, and the fertilizer can meet the nutrient requirements of the plant to boost growth and keep the pearls large and full.
• Move your plant to a brighter window. While a string of pearls can scorch in harsh sunlight, they do need bright light to grow with abundant pearls that appear full. When I lived in New York, I even moved my string of pearls to a window with some direct morning sunlight In the Fall and Winter, and the plant thrived.
• Prune the longer vines of your string of pearls if they have become leggy. A string of pearl plants tolerates pruning very well at any time of year. The cuttings can be used for propagation to grow another plant very easily, which is something I do every year.

Overwatering can also cause some of the pearls to die back, so I would check whether the soil dries out before watering and adjust your watering schedule accordingly. If you are in any doubt, delay watering by a day or so.

Are String of Pearls Toxic to Cats and Dogs?

I have researched this thoroughly, and it appears that string of pearls plants are mildly toxic to cats, dogs and other pets so I would emphasize the importance of keeping it out of reach of pets. I would bear in mind string of pearls is only mildly toxic, but, of course, take our pet to the vet if you suspect your pet has consumed any of the plants.

(Research from the Department of Animal Protection and Welfare and Veterinary Public Health, Faculty of Veterinary Hygiene and Ecology, University of Veterinary Sciences Brno, Palackeho tr. 1946/1, 61242 Brno, Czech Republic).

If you want to learn more about which succulents are toxic to pets and which are safe, read this article from ASPCA.

Do String of Pearls Like to be Misted?

String of pearls grow in dry regions of South Africa and can cope with a lack of rainfall, and low humidity, and arid climates.

Therefore, it is not necessary to mist your string of pearls, and it could even promote the conditions for root rot.

String of pearls can cope very well in environments with dry air, and I have even seen these plants grow in offices with air conditioning and dry air from indoor heating, and they have thrived.

How do I Propagate a String of Pearls Plant?

I experimented with the different ways of propagating string of pearls, and the easiest method that I personally prefer is to propagate from cuttings:

• Take a cutting of at least 4 inches and remove 2 or three leaves (pearls) from one end of the vine. The leaf nodes from the removed pearls can change their function from growing leaves to growing roots.
• Fill a pot with succulent and cacti soil and make a hole in the soil with a pencil to create space for the cutting. Place the bare end of the vine into the hole in the soil and firm the soil around the vine to keep it in place. The buried end of the vine should start to grow roots after 2 weeks.
• Mist the surface of the soil for the first 3 or 4 weeks, making sure that the surface does not dry out completely.

In my experience, the string of pearls vine should have rooted within the first 3 weeks, at which point you should water it every week during its first Spring and Summer to help establish the roots and then every 2 or 3 weeks in the Winter.

Whilst you can technically propagate at any time of year I personally recommend propagating in the Spring or early Summer as the success rate tends to be much higher.

I always try to propagate at least 3 vines at one time (you can propagate a lot at the same time, which is what I typically do), as sometimes the vines do not successfully root.

If you have any problems with your string of pearls plant, read my article How to Revive a Dying String of Pearls Plant.

Why are Jade plants so easy to grow? Their adaptations to dry environments make them the perfect plant to grow in our homes!

Here is a table summarizing how to grow and care for Jade plants:

About Jade Plants

Jade plants (Crassula ovata) are succulents that are native to Mozambique and thrive in gritty well-draining soil with infrequent rainfall.

Jade plants are well adapted to tolerating periods of drought as they are capable of storing moisture and nutrients in their thick fleshy leaves and stems.

Jade plants are my favorite houseplants as they adapt exceptionally well to indoor life tolerating fluctuating temperatures, low humidity, and indoor heating without being adversely affected.

More mature Jade plants often produce small white flowers in Winter.

There are two types of indoor jade plants that are particularly popular with Crassula Ovata being the most popular and ‘gollum’ jade being another popular option.

(Read my other article on specifically How to Care For Gollum Jade).

Jade plants are relatively slow-growing compact plants that can even be used to create a bonsai tree, and with the right care, jade can live for more than 100 years!

Where to Grow Jade Plants?

In my experience with growing jade plants, I would recommend placing your jade on a sunny-facing window sill if you live in a northern latitude with less intense daylight (such as Washington, Oregon, New York, or the UK), whereas in more southern latitudes (such as California or Arizona) it is better to place the jade plant in bright, indirect light or dappled sun.

If they grow without enough light, I find jade plants tend to grow leggy with sparse leaf growth, so if this is happening to your plant, find a bright spot.

Jade plants will tell you when they are in too much sun as the tips of the leaves turn an attractive sun-kissed pink or reddish color. The pigment responsible for this colour is anthocyanin which is released as a form of sunscreen for succulents.

Some pink edges to your jade plant are fine, but if you find the plant becoming excessively red, then this is the jade plant’s way of telling you it’s time to move it out of the intense direct sunlight.

Temperature

Jade plants are native to warm climates and thrive at room temperatures, with 50°F to 75°F (18°C to 24°C) being the optimal temperature range for growth.

From my personal experience, my jade plants typically have a Summer dormancy period where growth slows right down during heat waves and resumes when the temperature cools to a more tolerable level.

Jade plants tolerate central heating, air conditioning, draughts, and cooler indoor temperatures much better than most houseplants, so they are perfect for beginners!

How Often Should I Water My Jade Plants?

It is important to wait until the potting soil is completely dry before watering jade plants. Typically I find this means watering jade once every 2 weeks.

How do we avoid overwatering our jade plants?

Pro-tip for watering: I recommend feeling the soil at the pot’s base through the drainage hole to detect whether or not it has dried out completely. If the compost still feels damp, then delay watering until it’s dry, and then give it a thorough watering.

I personally find this method better than using a water meter, which I find has too great a margin of error with succulents.

I would also recommend picking your jade pot up periodically after watering to assess its weight. As the pot feels lighter and lighter, you can judge when the soil has dried out and water accordingly.

Water with a generous soak so that excess water trickles from the pot’s base to ensure that the potting medium is evenly moist.

How do I know if my Jade plant needs water?

If you are overwatering jade plants, the leaves become weak and often fall off either by themselves or with the slightest bump or knock. If this is happening, reduce how often you water your jade plant and always ensure the jade’s soil is dry before watering.

If your jade plant needs water, then the leaves will become thinner, and the surface can wrinkle. Jade plants store moisture in their leaves as a survival strategy in dry climates.

You should notice the leaves become thinner as the jade plant draws upon its moisture reserves, which also reduces the surface area of the leaves, reducing further water loss.

Jade plants can tolerate underwatering far better than overwatering, so do not worry if the leaves shrink or wrinkle as their appearance should be restored as it replenishes their moisture reserves after watering.

For more tips, read my related article: How to Water Jade Plants.

How Do I Care for Jade Plants in Winter?

• Temperature. Jade plants can cope well with cooler temperatures in Winter and can even tolerate temperatures of 45ºF (7ºC), which is, of course, well below room temperature.
• Light. Jade plants often benefit from being moved to a brighter room. I have noticed that my jade plants perform better and are less inclined to grow leggy when I move them to a south-facing window to counteract the lower light intensity and shorter days of Winter.
• Watering. When the temperature is cooler and there are fewer hours of sunlight, the rate at which the jade plant draws up moisture decreases significantly. This means the potting soil dries out much more slowly, and you should adjust your watering accordingly. I personally find that watering once a month in late Fall and Winter is enough for all my jade plants.

How to Re-pot Jade Plants?

Generally, it is best to re-pot mature jade plants every 3 or 4 years and less mature specimens every 2 years. Always re-pot jade plants in the Spring, and this is when the plant is most tolerant to the stress of transplanting.

Jade plants are relatively slow-growing plants and tend to stay in a nice and compact shape when in bright light/partial sun, which is why the species Crassula ovuata is so popular for bonsai.

Best Pots for Repotting Jade Plants

Always re-pot the jade plant into a pot that is just 1 or 2 inches larger than the previous pot. Do not use a significantly larger pot as this leads to ‘overpotting,’ which can cause the soil to dry out too slowly for the jade plant to tolerate, which increases the risk of root rot.

Choose a pot with drainage holes in the base.

My personal preference when choosing a pot for jade plants is to choose a clay or terracotta pot, as I think they look stylish and are porous, which means the soil dries out more evenly.

Plastic or ceramic pots are impermeable and can retain too much moisture around the jade plant’s roots.

Use Well Draining Potting Soil When Repotting Jade Plants

The best potting soil for repotting jade plants is a well-draining special succulent and cacti potting mix. The succulent and cacti soil replicates the gritty, low fertility, well-draining soil conditions of the jade plants’ native environment.

In this photo, you can see the difference between normal houseplant soil and a gritty mix of succulent soil. Normal potting soil drains too slowly and holds too much moisture for succulents like jade plants to tolerate.

When repotting the jade plant try to remove as much of the previous soil medium from around the roots before replanting.

Water the potting soil around 2 weeks after repotting to reduce stress on the plant and allow the roots to adjust to a different pot and potting medium.

Fertilizer

Jade plants are naturally slow-growing due to the harsh conditions of their native environment restricting their growth potential. Therefore, jade plants do not necessarily require a lot of fertilizer, particularly if you are repotting them every 3 or 4 years.

I have grown jade plants without fertilizer, and they have grown well. I have found that the need to use fertilizer increases with the size and maturity of the plant.

Ordinary houseplant fertilizer is too strong for jade plants (which naturally grow in low fertility, stony soils).

When I was working in a garden center, cultivating plants for sale, I saw good results with using a succulent and cacti fertilizer once a month which I personally observed boosted growth compared to mature jade plants with fertilizer, which is backed up by this academic study on fertilizer and growth rates of jade plants.

How to Prune Jade Plants

Jade plants do not typically need to be pruned when growing indoors. However, it is best practice to cut off any dying parts of your jade plant, which can happen even in optimal indoor environments. Jade plants are very hardy and can be cut back with a pruning tool at any time of year.

You can even prune jade plants to create an indoor bonsai tree. I personally prefer jade plants specifically (crassula ovata) for creating a bonsai tree as they are much better adapted for indoor life than most species of bonsai tree.

If you are pruning with the aim of creating a jade bonsai tree is best explained visually, here is a helpful YouTube video explaining how to prune for a bonsai tree effect:

How to Propagate Jade Plants

Propagating the most popular cultivar of the jade plant (crassula ovata) is very easy. My personal favorite method is to propagate a stem cutting as, in my experience, I have found this method has the highest success rate. It can also be done at any time of year, but the roots will form much more quickly in the Spring and Summer.

• Take a cutting from a stem of at least 3 inches. Choose a healthy-looking stem with nice plump leaves. If there are any shriveled or discolored leaves, then choose another stem.
• Strip the bottom leaves from the bottom half of the jade’s stem, leaving at least 3 or 4 leaves at the top of the stem.
• Let the cutting dry out for a few days so that the wound can heal over and dry up to prevent infection.
• Use a small pot that is proportionate to the size of the jade cutting and fill it with a gritty succulent soil mix.
• Make a hole with a pencil to accommodate the stem cutting and plant your jade.
• Leave the cutting in a nice bright, warm spot and just leave it for 2 weeks. Do not water it, as this can cause rot.
• After 2 weeks, it should have started to develop roots, so water your jade and care for it as usual, and it should start to show signs of growth.

The jade does not need watering initially because moisture and nutrients are stored in the thick, fleshy leaves, which is why it is so important to choose a cutting with healthy leaves.

You can also propagate jade cuttings in water but find the roots that develop in water are not very robust and can break when you transfer the jade to the soil, hence why I prefer to propagate straight into the soil.

Propagating from leaves is also a good option as it is also exceptionally easy.

• Gently twist off a leaf and let the wound heal for a day or so. Place the leaf onto the soil and locate it in a lovely, bright area. Do not water the soil, as the leaf has the necessary resources to develop roots and start growth. Watering the soil only promotes rot.
• After two weeks or so, the leaf should have developed tiny roots or a small plantlet, at this point, I recommend spritzing the soil with mist, as watering can be too heavy, and washing the soil around your leaf’s tiny roots away. It should develop into an independent jade plant over the next few weeks.

I have around a 60% success rate for leaf-cutting propagation in Spring and Summer (it’s a good idea to propagate several leaves at once), but this can drop below 40% in Winter, whereas I have always had a 100% success rate with propagating from cuttings into the soil which is why it’s my personal favorite method.

Whilst rooting hormone powder is not necessary for propagating jade, there is some evidence that it can stimulate stronger root growth.

Growing Jade Plants: Common Problems

• Jade Plant Dropping Leaves. This is the first sign of overwatering (or slow-draining soil). Scale back the frequency of watering so that the soil dries out completely. Check that the pot has a clear drainage hole in the base and empty any excess water in saucers underneath the pot to ensure water can drain properly.
• Jade Plant Turning Red. Whilst some red to the edges of your jade plant is okay, excessive red indicates stress from too much direct sunlight. Protect the jade from direct sunlight at midday and the jade can recover fully.
• Jade Plant Turning Yellow. Yellowing leaves is another indication of too much moisture being around the roots due to overwatering, slow draining soils or over potting. Reduce the frequency of watering so that the soil dries completely. If you suspect overwatering isn’t the cause then change the potting soil to a well draining gritting succulent and cacti mix or repot the jade plant into a smaller pot that is more proportional to the size of the plant.
• Jade Plant Drooping. The leaves can branches can droop because of either not enough light or due to overwatering. Typically I find the more common cause is a lack of sunlight which causes the branches to grow leggy as they grow towards the strongest source of light and then droop downwards due to a lack of photosynthesis. Move the jade to a brighter spot. If the branches have drooped completely then they do not stand back up again regardless of light, in which case take a cutting for propagation and grow a new plant.

Leaves and even branches do sometimes drop off jade plants (even if the plant is healthy) as falling leaves and branches that propagate on the soil is the jade’s primary means of reproducing.

If you have any other problems with your jade plant read my article, How to Revive a Dying Jade Plant for the solutions.

One of the most common mistakes that I see people make when they grow Venus fly traps is overwatering.

The key to taking care of these plants is for you to learn how Venus fly traps grow in the wild and then replicate these conditions in your home. How do you do this? It is actually very easy! In this article, I highlight everything you need to know for your Venus fly trap to thrive!

About Venus Fly Traps

Venus fly traps (Dionaea muscipula) are native to a very limited area of North and South Carolina on the East coast of the USA. They thrive in coastal boggy areas with soil that is too acidic and too low in nutrients for other plants to grow.

They are well adapted to these harsh conditions thanks to their ability to attract, trap, and digest the abundant fly and insect populations in these areas, using digestive enzymes to break down their prey so they can benefit from the nutrients. It’s a pretty cool adaptation, don’t you think?

Contrary to what the name suggests, Venus fly traps can actually digest a whole range of insects rather than just flies.

As Venus fly traps do not need fertilizer, it is your responsibility to feed the trap indoors!

(Did you know the rapid closure of the traps takes 100 mili seconds, making it one of the fastest movements in the plant kingdom?)

How to Feed a Venus Fly Trap

Venus fly traps have specifically adapted to grow in environments with very low-nutrient soil, so it’s essential that you do not use any houseplant fertilizer for your Venus fly traps.

High fertility soil is contrary to their natural conditions and can even cause the Venus fly trap to droop and die back as the nutrients can burn their sensitive roots.

Feeding Venus fly traps may be a completely passive process for you, the plant parent, as they trap their own flies if you leave them outdoors due to their ability to attract flies.

However, if you keep your Venus fly trap indoors, then it is unlikely the plant is not going to encounter enough prey.

• Live prey is always best for feeding Venus fly traps, as each trap has several trigger hairs that must be stimulated in sequence (by the trapped fly or insect moving around) to initiate the digestive process.

My top tip: You can, however, feed Venus fly traps dead flies as long as they have only recently been swatted (as flies or insects that have been dead for a long time tend to lose their nutritional value).

In my experience, this can be quite tricky as you have to be precise when dropping the fly into the trap as you do not want the fly to bounce off the cilla (which are the stiff hair-like protrusions on the lobes) and out of the trap, or to accidentally stimulate the sensitive trigger hair of adjacent traps.

This happened to me the first time I had to feed Venus fly traps in my job at a plant nursery, and whilst it wasn’t fatal to the plant in this instance, it does cost the plant unnecessary energy.

Personally, I have found the best method to use tweezers to carefully lower your fly into the trap.

Once the trap closes you have to massage the outside of the closed trap to simulate the movement (which stimulates in sequence the trigger hairs inside the trap) of a live insect and ensure that the trap starts the digestive process.

Typically you only have to feed the Venus fly trap every 2 weeks when indoors to meet the nutrient requirements of the plant. I have gone longer between feeding Venus fly traps, but I noticed the plant grows much slower.

Eventually, the trap should reopen, and you can often see the shell of the insect it digested, which I think always looks fascinating if a little macabre!

Do not attempt to remove this shell, as you might inadvertently stimulate the trigger hairs to re-close the trap unnecessarily.

What can I Feed my Venus Fly Trap?

I must emphasize that Venus fly traps are specifically adapted to digesting insects, and they do not have the digestive enzymes to eat meat or cheese, so they also stick to insects.

Here is a list of what you can feed your Venus fly trap indoors:

• All flies that can comfortably fit in the trap.
• Wasps.
• Spiders
• Crickets
• Live mealworms.

Venus fly traps are capable of digesting other species, but I would recommend sticking to this list to avoid problems. If you don’t want to catch the prey, I find you can always buy live mealworms or blood worms from fishing supply stores.

Avoid feeding your Venus fly trap:

• Centipedes
• Earwigs
• Ants
• Catepillars.

The problem with centipedes, earwigs, and caterpillars is that these insects can actually attempt to eat their way out of the trap and escape which not only damages your Venus fly trap but it is also a waste of its energy and resources.

Venus fly Traps Need Full Sun (6 hours or more)

Venus fly traps naturally grow in nutrient-poor acidic soil that other plants cannot tolerate, which means they grow in open areas with sun all day long.

When grown indoors, locate your Venus fly trap on a south-facing window in direct sunlight.

Whilst Venus fly traps attain their nutritional needs from preying on insects, they still need to photosynthesize like any other plants.

In the Summer, I place my Venus fly trap outdoors (so it can naturally catch its prey) on a table to benefit from full natural sunlight.

I must emphasize that Venus fly traps do not tolerate low light. When I lived in an apartment in New York, in the Winter, certain sun-loving houseplants did not receive enough direct sunlight due to how my window was orientated. Hence, I used a grow light in the evening, which supplanted the natural light and ensured my plants grew well.

(I would recommend taking your Venus fly trap inside if the night temperature is forecast to dip below 55F (13C))

How to Water Venus Fly Traps (Water from the Bottom)

Venus fly traps are particularly sensitive to the minerals and chemicals found in tap water, so use filtered water, distilled water, or rainwater instead.

Avoid using bottled mineral water as this has a mineral content that is too high for the Venus fly trap to tolerate.

I would also caution against watering at the surface of the soil as, in my experience, I have found that Venus fly traps are quite susceptible to crown rot, and a damp soil surface can exacerbate the risk.

The best advice that I have received from growers of carnivorous plants within the growing industry is to always water at the bottom by using a saucer or tray underneath the pot and allowing the soil to draw up water.

This avoids the risk of crown rot and ensures the soil is evenly moist.

My best tip for watering: What I recommend is to keep the saucer filled with water for a day or so to allow the pot to draw up moisture and then pick the pot up to assess the weight whilst the soil is evenly moist (it should feel reassuringly heavy) then discard the excess water in the tray or saucer.

Keep picking up the pot periodically over the next few days to judge when it is lighter (which indicates that the soil has dried somewhat); when it feels lighter, that is the right time to top up the saucer of water.

This is the best method for watering as the Venus fly trap’s demand for water fluctuates according to the time of year.

Venus fly traps use significantly less water during dormancy, and the pot should dry out more slowly. Adjust your frequency of watering to the time of year.

Do not let your Venus fly trap sit in water for several days, as this can cause the soil to be too boggy and result in root rot.

If the soil dries out completely, it is likely the Venus fly trap dies back.

Keep Venus Fly Traps at Room Temperature

A temperature range of 65ºF to 75ºF (18ºC to 24ºC) is optimal for growth.

It is important to locate your plant out of the way of air conditioning, forced air, draughts, and temperature fluctuations from open doors.

Here where I live, the window sill can get too cold in the evenings, which I noticed caused the rate of growth of the plant to reduce significantly. Because of this, I moved my plant away from the window sill if a colder night temperature was forecast.

How to Re-pot a Venus Fly Trap

When I was working in a commercial greenhouse and supplying plants to garden centers, I was told It is best to re-pot Venus fly traps every 12 months to avoid the soil becoming too compact, which can hinder the growth of roots.

However, I personally tend to leave my less mature Venus fly traps in the same pot for 2 years, and they thrive.

The best time of year to re-pot a Venus fly trap is in the Spring, as this is when the plant is at its most resilient and most likely to survive any transplant shock. Do not re-pot Venus fly traps in the Fall or Winter when the plant is dormant.

Venus fly traps are very particular about their soil, and their potting mix must mimic the characteristics of their native environment.

Venus fly traps grow in very acidic soil that is very low in nutrients.

In commercial greenhouses, the potting mix that I used was a mix of peat moss, sand, and perlite in equal parts.

If you have these three ingredients to hand, then you can mix your own soil before repotting.

However, if you do not, then I recommend buying a special carnivorous plant potting mix online or from a good garden center, which I think is a great option if you are a beginner.

Do not plant Venus fly traps in normal potting soil, as this contains too many nutrients and is also unlikely to be acidic enough for the plant.

You can re-pot Venus fly traps into any pot with drainage holes in the base. Only repot the Venus fly trap to a pot that is 1 or 2 inches larger in diameter than the previous one to avoid over-potting.

I personally recommend using a ceramic pot with a light color (such as white or cream) as this avoids the pot heating up too quickly and drying the soil too fast, whereas I find that dark pots and plastic pots can heat up much quicker and potential cause drought stress to your Venus fly trap.

Important tip: After repotting, place the repotted Venus fly trap in a saucer of water and allow the soil to draw up moisture to alleviate transplant shock.

How to Care for Venus Fly Traps in Winter

Venus fly traps often turn black and appear to die back in Winter. As the number of daylight hours and the intensity of light decreases, the Venus fly trap enters a state of dormancy to preserve its resources in the Winter.

This is always alarming if you are new to growing Venus fly traps, but fear not!

The plant is still alive with preserved resources in the underground rhizome, ready to emerge again with new growth in the Spring.

It should be noted that Venus fly traps do not necessarily have to die back every Winter if the Venus fly trap is indoors if you create the right conditions. I have personally been able to avoid Venus fly traps dying back each Winter.

In my experience, it is key to provide the plant with additional light (by using a grow light), ensure it gets around 12 hours of sunlight/grow light per day, and keep the plant at room temperature.

I found it also helps to increase the humidity with regular misting or perhaps by moving the Venus fly trap to a bathroom.

If you use a grow light to supplement the natural light, then keep watering at normal, but if the visible foliage Venus fly trap dies back, then reduce watering so that the soil is only slightly moist.

Pro tip: Some commercial growers that I have spoken to think a Winter ‘rest’ period where the foliage dies back is better for the plant as it replicates its natural annual cycle, and the plant can create new growth in the Spring.

However, as I personally have a grow light, I prefer to keep the plant alive through the Winter. If you do this, ensure that you feed the Venus fly traps every 2 or 3 weeks in Winter to meet its nutritional requirements.

What to do with the Dead Parts of the Venus fly Trap?

Individual traps often turn brown or black and die while the rest of the plant remains healthy. Individual traps may only last for a few months before dying back, which usually stimulates the new growth of more traps.

Do not worry if this happens to your plant, as this is a normal part of the plant’s life cycle! But what do you do?

Once the trap has turned completely brown or black, then it no longer performs a function for the plant, and you can cut back to the base with a sharp pair of pruners…

Remove the Venus Fly Traps Flowers in the Spring

Small white flowers often emerge in Springtime on flower spikes.

I recommend removing them with a sharp pair of pruners as the flowering process takes a lot of energy away from the Venus fly trap, which can reduce the growth of new traps.

Whilst this may seem harsh, Venus fly traps are prized for their interest in fly catching rather than floral displays. Therefore, by pruning back the flowers, we look after our plants by preserving their energy!

If you have any problems with your Venus fly trap, read my article, How to Revive a Dying Venus Fly Trap.

Pothos is a very easy plant to grow and one I personally recommend to anyone who is looking for a low-maintenance houseplant. But how do you ensure healthy pothos with luxuriant leaves? The secret is to learn how they grow in the wild and recreate some of these conditions in our homes to ensure your plant thrives!

Summary of care and growing instructions for pothos indoors:

About Pothos

Pothos (Scindapsus) is a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia. It has the colloquial name ‘devil’s Ivy’, which you may think sounds sinister, but this is due to its hardy nature and resilience to unfavorable conditions, which makes it a perfect houseplant for beginners!

Pothos comes in several varieties with golden pothos and neon pothos being the most popular cultivars available in garden centers.

Its vines are capable of developing aerial roots to anchor themselves to a support such as a moss pole, or they can be cultivated to grow a bushy appearance with regular pruning.

Did you know pothos even has the ability to purify air-borne chemicals?

It should be noted that pothos is actually regarded as an invasive species in the USA so avoid planting outdoors.

How Often to Water My Pothos?

Water pothos every week in the Spring and Summer during active growth and water every 10 to 14 days in the Winter whilst the plant is dormant. If the pothos is under-watered, the leaves and stems wilt, whereas the leaves turn yellow due to overwatering.

I find that pothos grown in bright rooms with lots of light need watering more often than those grown in shadier rooms.

Pro tip: A good method for establishing whether your pothos needs watering is to feel the top inch of the soil. If the top inch of soil is still damp then delay watering until it has just started to dry, then give the pothos a good soak.

I have found from experience that it is far easier to revive an under-watered pothos than an overwatered pothos, so if you are in any doubt, I recommend delaying watering until you are sure the top inch of soil is dry.

(Read my article, How Often to Water Pothos, for more on watering at different times of the year).

What are the Light Requirements for Pothos?

Pothos need bright indirect light to thrive and grow bushy. However, they can tolerate full shade and still remain healthy. I must caution against growing pothos in direct sunlight, which can scorch yellow due to its sensitive leaves.

I have grown pothos in rooms with north-facing windows that have limited light but I prefer their bushier appearance when grown in the bright light of a room with a south-facing window.

Did you know that the reason pothos has the common name ‘devil’s ivy‘ is because the leaves can stay green even after weeks without light? In my opinion, pothos is the best houseplant for an office due to its tolerance of poor light. Plus, I think they really brighten up the place!

How to Care for Pothos Indoors?

Pothos are tropical plants and prefer room temperature, with 65°F and 80°F (18°C and 27°C) being optimal for growth in the Spring and Summer.

However, in Winter, I find it is best to reduce the temperature down to 60ºF (15°C) whilst the plant is dormant.

It is a good idea to keep your pothos away from cold window sills at night (which can be much cooler than the ambient temperature of the room). I personally have to move mine from a window sill during Winter as the glass can get very cold, which can harm the leaves of your plant.

Avoid placing your pothos too near to any indoor heating, as the temperature fluctuations can dry out the soil too quickly.

Suppose your pothos plants are in the direct path of airflow from air conditioning, forced air, or even draughts from open windows. In that case, I find my pothos grow better when I mist the leaves to increase the humidity, which counteracts the unfavorable dry air.

I prefer misting the leaves every few days, but I have also found good results when using an indoor humidifier.

As pothos prefers warm temperatures and some humidity I have found that pothos grow particularly well in bathrooms as long as they have bright, indirect light.

Useful tip: I find that the pothos leaves tend to attract dust due to their slightly waxy surface. I recommend wiping the leaves gently with a damp cloth every 3 or 4 weeks to keep them healthier, as they can photosynthesize more efficiently.

How Often to Repot Pothos

Re-pot pothos every 2 to 3 years in the Spring. Pothos can tolerate being pot-bound for a year or so, but it should repotted when there are roots growing from the drainage holes in the base and when roots are circulating the bottom of the pot.

Whilst you can repot pothos at anytime of year, I’ve found Spring is by far the best time as the plant is this is the time of year its most resilient.

Give the soil a good soak after repotting and misting the leaves to alleviate transplant shock, and your pothos should be back to their best in no time!

Best Soil Mix for Repotting Pothos

Pothos needs a well-draining and nutrient-rich soil potting soil. Mix 80% of houseplant soil with 20% perlite or pine bark-based potting mix. This provides the optimal well-draining soil structure for the pothos’s roots to establish and grow.

Pothos particularly do not like overly compacted soil, which is why it is so important to amend the soil before repotting.

I have found that perlite is a better option than pine bark for a soil amendment as its large particle size allows water to drain efficiently away from the roots, which prevents root rot.

Perlite is also inorganic and doesn’t decompose like pine bark, so the soil structure is preserved over a longer time frame, giving our pothos plants the best soil conditions.

In my experience, root rot is one of the biggest threats to pothos plants, hence the importance of good drainage.

If you do not amend the soil to improve the drainage, then the soil can stay too moist for the pothos to tolerate, resulting in yellowing leaves and a dying plant.

If your pothos are dying and turning yellow, read my article, How to Save a Pothos with Yellow Leaves.

Best Pots for Repotting Pothos

My favorite pots for pothos plants are clay or terracotta pots as they are porous, which allows the potting soil to dry out evenly, whereas plastic pots can retain too much moisture for the pothos’s roots to tolerate.

Always repot your pothos plants to a pot that is only 1 or 2 inches in diameter larger than its previous pot to prevent ‘over potting’.

Overpotting is a classic mistake that I see people make all the time. If the pot is too large, then it holds much more soil and dries out more slowly, which can promote the conditions for root rot.

I personally prefer terracotta pots for growing pothos indoors. However, pothos can still grow in other pots as long as you are careful not to overwater and as long as they have drainage holes in the base.

How do I Prune Pothos?

I recommend pruning your pothos every Spring. Pothos is a hardy plant and can tolerate good pruning, so use a sharp pair of pruners to cut the vines back to the desired size and shape.

I always use pruning as a good opportunity to take cuttings for propagating. Who doesn’t love more houseplants for free?

The problem is that pothos vines can grow long and leggy over the years if left unpruned, which creates a less desirable appearance.

Pruning every year creates a far more bushy shape for your pothos with more abundant leaves. I have found that when I grow pothos in brighter light, the pothos have a tendency to grow more bushy and look much better.

How to Propagate Pothos

In my experience, the best way to propagate pothos is to propagate the vines in soil in the Spring.

You can propagate many individual plants from just one vine as at each petiole, there is a node that can develop roots and form a new plant.

I personally prefer propagating pothos in soil rather than water as I find when you have to transfer the pothos plant cuttings that are propagated in water into new soil, the roots tend to be very weak, and the shock of being transferred from water to soil can kill the cutting.

As propagation is a nuanced process better explained visually, here is a helpful YouTube on how to propagate pothos cuttings in soil:

What Fertilizer Should I Use for Pothos?

Use a general liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month in the Spring and Summer to support healthy growth and a bushy appearance.

The reason I recommend using fertilizer at half concentration is that pothos is not as nutrient-hungry as some other houseplants, and too much fertilizer can cause the leaves to turn yellow.

Pothos plants are so hardy that they can actually survive without fertilizer if they are repotted into new potting soil every 2 years.

However, I find that when I use fertilizer, the pothos leaves tend to be much larger, which helps to create a bushy appearance, compared with pothos that do not have any fertilizer.

Avoid using any fertilizer after the Summer.

If you are having any problems with your pothos, read my article, How to Revive a Dying Pothos Plant.

I love spider plants. They are one of my favorite houseplants as they are incredibly hardy and have a very elegant variegated appearance. People often ask me what is the best houseplant for beginners. I almost always recommend spider plants!

How do you care for them? The best way is to learn about how they grow in their natural habitat and then recreate these conditions in your home for a happy plant!

Here is a table summarizing the main growing and care conditions of indoor spider plants:

About Spider Plants

Spider plants (chlorophytum comosum) are native to West tropical Africa, living in a humid yet seasonally dry environment.

The houseplant cultivars of spider plants have variegated leaves which can either have white edges with a green stripe down the middle or green edges with a white stripe, whereas the wild varieties tend to have solid green leaves.

They are exceptionally popular houseplants due to how well they are adapted to indoor environments…

The Best Place to Keep a Spider Plant Indoors

Indoor spider plants should be in a room with bright indirect light. I find they grow exceptionally well in a humid room such as a bathroom. Spider plants can grow in low light conditions, but they lose their variegated stripes, whereas too much direct sunlight can scorch the leaves.

I personally find spider plants grow best in a bright bathroom or kitchen as the higher humidity, bright light, and consistently warm temperatures recreate the conditions of their natural environment.

However, I have also grown spider plants in most rooms of the house as long as there is bright light.

If you choose to grow the spider plant in a hanging basket (like the one in my photo), then I recommend you water it more often (once every 5 to 7 days), as I have found from my experience that the soil can dry out much more quickly.

Mist the leaves Regularly to Increase the Humidity

It is important to mist an indoor spider plant’s leaves as the air indoors is usually too low which results in the leaf tips turning brown.

The air in most houses is typically around 10%, whereas the humidity in the spider plant’s native environment is usually around 40%.

This discrepancy in humidity causes the leaves to lose too much moisture and turn brown as a sign of stress.

I find if you keep the spider plant in your bathroom and live in a climate with relatively high humidity then only the occasional misting once per week is necessary.

However, If you are in a dry climate or use a lot of air conditioning or central heating, then I would recommend misting every other day or perhaps buying a plant humidifier, which can create the optimal condition for your spider plant.

I found that grouping my other humidity-loving plants together (such as monstera and orchids) can help create a favorable microclimate of humidity in the house, and it also makes it easier to mist your plants at the same time.

How Often to Water Spider Plants

Water spider plants about once a week. Spider plants have thick fleshy roots that can store moisture, so spider plants are very forgiving if you forget to water them for a few extra days. Always allow the top inch of soil to dry before watering.

In my experience, I have found that spider plants are more susceptible to dying from overwatering rather than underwatering.

Allowing the top inch of the soil to dry slightly between bouts of watering ensures that you can achieve the perfect balance of soil moisture for your spider plant in your indoor environment.

If the spider plant is overwatered, then it develops root rot and can die back, whereas underwatering just results in wilting and brown leaf tips, which can easily be remedied by giving it a good soak and trimming off the brown tips.

Should You Water Indoor Spider Plants from Top or Bottom?

Spider plants can be successfully watered from the top or bottom, but I personally recommend watering from the bottom.

This is because I find the spider plant’s roots can draw up and store a significant amount of moisture which can dry the soil quicker than you would expect.

When the potting soil dries out, it can bake hard and repel water off the surface, so the moisture does not infiltrate properly and reach the roots.

Watering from the bottom (by filling the dish, tray, or saucer underneath the pot) allows the soil to draw up water so that it becomes evenly moist after 30 minutes or so.

Just be sure to empty the tray of any excess water after 30 minutes to prevent root rot.

Best Temperature for Indoor Spider Plants (Around Room Temperature)

The optimal temperature range for spider plants is between 45°F to 75°F (7°C to 24°C). However, they can survive with higher temperatures temporarily.

I would not recommend placing spider plants on a cool window sill, particularly in Winter, as in my experience, cool temperatures can cause the leaves to develop brown streaks.

I also found that my spider plant can develop brown leaf tips if they are too near to central heating in Winter, so keep the spider plant on the other side of the room from any indoor heating sources.

If you can, keep the plant out of the direct path of air conditioning or forced air, as this can also cause the leaf tips to turn brown through a combination of low humidity and hot or cold temperatures.

What is the Best Soil for Spider Plants?

The best soil for spider plants is a mix of 80% normal houseplant potting soil amended with 20% perlite. The perlite creates the aerated soil structure that the spider plant’s root requires, whilst the potting soil retains enough moisture to prevent drought stress.

I have personally found that perlite is the best soil amendment for spider plants (rather than grit) as perlite is formed of a volcanic glass that can absorb and hold water whilst also creating a porous soil structure that allows excess water to drain away from the roots.

Since I have been using perlite in my soil mixes (rather than grit), I have found my spider plants are less likely to develop brown leaf tips (due to drought stress) yet also have the right balance of drainage to avoid any problems with overwatering.

You can also plant in a potting mix that includes cactus soil, although your spider plants may need to be watered more often as cactus soil drains very quickly. So I would just recommend using perlite as it is usually cheaper and better for our spider plant’s health!

Best Pots for Spider Plants

My personal favorite pots for spider plants are terracotta or clay pots as they are porous, which helps the soil to dry out more evenly, whereas ceramic and plastic pots are impermeable, which means the pots can retain too much moisture around the roots.

The most important feature is that the pot must have a drainage hole in the base to prevent excess water from pooling around the roots.

Important tip: Spider plants prefer deeper pots rather than wide shallow pots as their roots have a tendency to grow deep and establish rather than growing wide and near the surface.

Spider plants can actually tolerate being fairly pot-bound, and I have found that they produce the greatest number of offsets or ‘babies’ when the roots are somewhat pot-bound.

If the pot is large, the spider plant directs its energy to grow its roots, whereas in smaller, more snug pots where the roots have already filled out, the spider plant prioritizes growing its offsets for propagation.

How Often to Repot Spider Plants

Re-pot spider plants when the white roots push up and out of the soil or if they are clearly pushing against the side of the pot. Re-pot mature spider plants every Spring in a pot that is 2 inches wider than the previous pot.

I have found from my experience that if you leave a spider plant in the same pot for too long, the roots can push against the side of the pot, which can cause water to trickle down the gap rather than infiltrate the soil.

I find that smaller spider plants may only need repotting every 2 years but always re-pot in the Spring, as this is when the plant is at its most resilient.

We should always avoid repotting spider plants in the Winter as they can die from stress.

From my experience with potting mixes, I recommend re-potting the spider plant into a potting mix of 80% houseplant potting soil and 20% perlite for optimal soil structure and water in the well.

Should I Prune the Babies off my Spider Plant?

It is not strictly necessary to prune the spider plant babies off the main plant, but it is a good way to propagate and grow a new spider plant free of charge.

If you do not want another spider plant, then you can trim the vine from which the plantlet or ‘baby’ appeared back as far as you can to the base.

A spider plant that is growing many offsets indicates a spider plant that is thriving in the right conditions! If so, congratulations, you are doing a great job!

Read my article if your spider plant is not growing or developing off-setts.

How to Propagate Spider Plants

Spider plants are my favorite plant to propagate, as they do all the work for you! The spider plant displays delicate white flowers in the Spring and Summer, which then develop into the plantlets or ‘babies,’ which then develop roots and then propagate.

The photo above shows both the delicate white flowers, and there is a plantlet on the end of the stem that has already formed from the flowers that display a few weeks earlier.

The above photo shows my spider plant with the developed off sett with its tiny delicate roots ready for propagation.

• The best way I have found for propagating spider plants is to wait until the spider plant babies are the same size as the one in the photo and to place a pot (filled with houseplant compost and perlite) next to your spider plant.
• Use a paper clip bent into a peg shape to hold the spider plant plantlet in place, whilst keeping the stem attached.
• The stem still provides moisture and nutrients for the plantlet whilst the plantlet’s roots develop and establish in the soil.
• Keep the soil relatively moist to encourage the roots to establish so that they can draw up moisture and sustain the new plant.
• I typically cut the main stem off with a sharp pair of pruners after around three weeks, as this gives plenty of time for the roots to establish in the soil.
• Try to keep the soil evenly moist for the first few weeks after propagation and use a half-strength fertilizer to aid growth in the Spring and Summer months and you should have a nice spider plant free of charge!

Spider plants have even been identified as useful plants for removing pollutants from indoor air for a healthier indoor environment, so I think the more spider plants propagated, the better!

How to use Fertilizer for Spider Plants

Use a general houseplant liquid fertilizer at half strength in the Spring and Summer months every 2 weeks.

In my experience, spider plants always grow better with fertilizer as they have abundant foliage, which takes a lot of resources to grow every year. Fertilizer also promotes the growth of plantlets for propagation.

I have found that fertilizer applied at full strength can turn the leaves droopy which is why I recommend half-strength.

Do not apply any fertilizer in the Winter, as the plant is dormant.

How to Trim a Spider Plant

Spider plants do not need an annual pruning necessarily but I sometimes prune any droop leaves back to the base with a sharp pair of pruners in Spring to tidy the appearance of the plant up.

You can trim any brown tips off the plants but always ensure you cut diagonally so that the leaf end has a tip, rather than cutting straight across.

Prune away any flowers or plantlets that you do not intend to propagate, as they take away energy from the plant.

How do you Care for Spider Plants in Winter?

If you live in a home with forced air or central heating, then I recommend misting the leaves of your spider plant regularly in Winter to prevent the leaves from drying out and turning brown.

I also recommend placing the spider plant on the other side of the room from any sources of indoor heating, as this can also dry out the soil and cause it to bake hard so that it does not absorb moisture.

Keep the spider plant away from cold frosty window sills and keep it in a room that is ideally above 45°F (7°C) at night.

As the spider plant is dormant, it requires watering less often in Winter. You should always wait until the top inch of soil has dried before watering again in the Winter, which I typically find means watering the Spider plant once every 10 days.

Top tip: I personally recommend feeling the soil with your finger to detect when the soil is dry, as I find moisture meters are not as accurate as they need to be to establish a good watering cycle for your spider plants.

If you have any problems with your spider plant, read my article How to Revive a Dying Spider Plant.