A dying bougainvillea is often due to overwatering, slow-draining soils, and cold temperatures. Over-watering creates too much moisture around its roots which causes leaf drop and root rot resulting in a dying bougainvillea. Temperatures consistently colder than 40°F (5°C) result in dying bougainvillea.
Bougainvillea can also drop their leaves after planting due to transplant shock or because they are not in full sun.
Keep reading for more on why your bougainvillea is dying and how you can solve the problem and revive the plant…
Overwatering Bougainvillea Causes Root Rot
The most likely reason your bougainvillea is dying is because of overwatering.
Bougainvilleas are drought-resistant plants that are native to arid areas of South America and thrive in gardens that emulate their preferred dry conditions.
If a bougainvillea is overwatered then it typically shows signs of stress such as leaf drop and a lack of flowers. Persistently over watering can even result in root rot which often is the cause of a dying bougainvillea.
I find it is common for gardeners to mistake leaf drops as a sign the bougainvillea requires more water which often compounds the problem.
If you are watering your bougainvillea more than once per week then you are almost certainly overwatering.
Only water bougainvilleas when the soil has dried out somewhat since you last watered or after rainfall to ensure the soil does not remain damp as boggy soil is contrary to their preferred conditions.
Specifically, how much you should water your bougainvillea depends on several factors such as climate, rainfall, the amount of sun, how fast the soil drains, etc., so it is important to water your bougainvillea according to the climate and weather conditions.
Test the soil around the bougainvillea to a finger depth to see if you can detect any moisture.
If the soil feels moist then skip watering for a few days until the soil feels drier and then give the plant a generous soak (rather than a light watering) to encourage the roots to grow and establish in the soil which further increases its drought resistance and the hardiness of the plant.
‘Typically bougainvilleas tend to thrive when watered once every two weeks if there has been no significant rainfall and they are planted in optimal well draining soil.‘
This is particularly the case for bougainvilleas planted in pots as it provides the right balance of enough moisture for the plant to thrive and enough time for the soil to dry out so the roots do not succumb to water stress.
However, I must re-emphasize it is important to water according to climate. In areas of high rainfall, established bougainvilleas often do not require any additional water.
If your bougainvillea is dying or dropping its leaves, then scale back the watering to once every two weeks and only water if it has not rained significantly.
The bougainvillea should show signs of recovery (if the temperature is warm and it is in full sun) if it is just suffering from water stress over the next few weeks.
This is dependent on whether the bougainvillea is planted in well-draining soil or in a pot with drainage holes in the base.
However, if the bougainvillea has been in saturated soil for too long it may have root rot and the plant could die.
(If your bougainvillea has lots of foliage but not flowering read my article why is my bougainvillea not flowering?)
Slow Draining Soils (Bougainvillea Requires Good Drainage)
Bougainvilleas prefers the soil to be light with a porous structure to allow excess water to drain away from the roots (to prevent root rot).
Ideally, a bougainvillea should be planted in soil with organic matter (compost and leaf mold) mixed in with some inorganic material (horticultural sand or grit) to increase the drainage and aeration of the soil, so the the structure allows the soil to be somewhat dry between bouts of watering, replicating preferred soil conditions in its native environment.
Bougainvilleas do not grow well when planted in slow-draining soil such as heavy clay or naturally boggy areas which can cause water to pool around the roots and cause water stress.
The signs of a bougainvillaea suffering because of slow draining soils are the same as an over watering with leaf drop being the first indicator despite warm or mild temperatures (leaves can also drop due to cold).
How to solve it:
- If at all possible I would strongly advise avoiding planting bougainvillea in clay soils as it is unlikely to live for very long.
- In gardens with heavy clay or naturally boggy areas, it is best to grow bougainvillea in pots, containers, or raised beds due to the more favorable drainage conditions. It is also much easier to customize the soil profile to suit the requirements of bougainvillea.
- In soil that is consistently damp (due to slow drainage) transplant the bougainvillea to a pot or dryer area of the garden as a matter of urgency. Always use a fork rather than a spade or shovel to protect the relatively delicate roots of bougainvillea when digging.
- Choose a pot that is around 12-16 inches across with lots of drainage holes in the base and use a potting mix of approximately 80% multipurpose compost to 20% horticultural sand or grit to improve drainage.
There are some best practices to be aware of before transplanting bougainvillea so I recommend watching this helpful YouTube video first:
Bougainvilleas actually tolerate their roots being pot-bound and it is even correlated with more flowering (root stress can encourage flowering) however a larger pot or container has the capacity for more soil which helps to insulate the cold-sensitive roots in cooler climates so a relatively large pot or container is often a better choice.
In climates with higher levels of rainfall the more sand or grit I would add to the potting mix to ensure the roots can dry more efficiently to prevent root rot.
If the bougainvillea is too large to move, I would recommend creating channels in the soil around the plant with a fork and adding sand to the channels (ideally with a funnel) to change the soil profile, improve the soil structure, and increase drainage.
This tactic can be a surprisingly effective way to improve drainage and prevent your bougainvillaea from dying.
In cooler and higher rainfall climates more sand, grit, or perlite in the soil helps to increase drainage to counteract the water to prevent root rot or water stress.
(Read my article, how to water bougainvillea in pots).
Bougainvillea Leaf and Flower Drop Due to Cold Temperatures

Bougainvillea is native to hot, sunny, and dry areas of South America. therefore it is relatively cold-sensitive (hardy in USDA zones 9).
If you live in a cooler climate or have an unseasonable cold snap (with a drastic fluctuation in temperature) then bougainvillea may drop its leaves as a sign of stress.
The colorful bracts (which are actually specialized leaves) that surround the flowers may also wilt or drop off as a reaction to the cold.
However, some varieties do tolerate cold better than others with some even tolerating a light frost and coming back strong when the weather warms up again.
Also, bear in mind that bougainvillea can actually be deciduous in cooler climates (and evergreen in warmer areas that are similar to their native climate) so leaf drop is not necessarily a serious concern or a sign that the plant is dying.
If bougainvillea has experienced a light frost then it’s likely that some of the leaves, and flowers can drop and possibly the branches can die.
However, the hardier older wood and the roots (which are the most cold-sensitive part of the plant) often survive as the roots are insulated by the soil.
If there is a particularly hard frost or cold temperatures for a long time then it is likely that the bougainvillea does not revive.
The best practice for growing bougainvillaeas in cold climates is to plant them in pots and bring them indoors as soon as the temperature at night is below 40°F (5°C) (and place the pot in a sunny window) to prevent the bougainvillaea from suffering in the cold or dying.
If you bring your bougainvillea pot indoors for Winter then water about once every 4-6 weeks.
Place the bougainvillea in a room that ideally has a fairly consistent temperature, such as a garage, heated greenhouse, or perhaps the kitchen, rather than by a source of heat or in the path of any air currents as the fluctuation in temperature can cause the plant stress.
Place the bougainvillea outdoors in full sun when the temperature at night is reliably more than 40°F (5°C) the following Spring.
Not Enough Sun
In their native range, bougainvilleas enjoy full sun.
The amount of sunlight is the one most important factor for the health and life span of bougainvillea and it is directly correlated with the number of flowers it can display.
Bougainvilleas require at least 6 hours of direct sun per day during Spring and Summer to grow successfully and display flowers. If they are in too much shade then bougainvilleas tend to have less impressive growth with fewer flowers and they are not likely to live very long.
Direct sun also helps to increase evaporation for the surrounding soil which helps to create the dryer conditions that bougainvillea are naturally accustomed to.
If your bougainvillea is not in full sun then you can either create more light by thinning out any overhanging trees which may be casting shade or trim back any surrounding vegetation.
The other option is to transplant the bougainvillea, if possible to a sunnier location.
Ideally, you have a potted or container bougainvillea which can be easily moved to full sun.
If you move the bougainvillea to a sunnier area of your garden, it should show signs of recovery in a few weeks but if it is left in the shade for too long it can be difficult to revive.
(Read my article, how to grow bougainvillea in pots).
Is Your Bougainvillea Dying After Planting? (Transplant Shock)
If your bougainvillea is dropping leaves and flowers after planting then this is often because the plant is in shock due to a drastic change in growing conditions.
When bougainvilleas are grown commercially for sale in garden centers they can be grown in very controlled greenhouse conditions with consistent temperatures, optimal sunlight, and watering and the roots can be accustomed to the soil conditions.
With such consistent conditions, the bougainvillea can become less hardy and more sensitive to variability in conditions.
So when they are transported to a garden center and then to your home they are often planted in contrasting conditions to which they are accustomed which can cause transplant shock.
Transplant shock can cause leaf and flower drop of your bougainvillea and it may seem like the plant is dying.
However, some degree of shock is not usual and the plant can recover as long as they are cared for properly the plant can adjust to your garden.
To mitigate the effects of transplant shock it is important to ensure that the bougainvillea has…
- Full sun (at least 6 hours).
- Well-draining soil (approximately 80% compost with 20% sand or grit). Amend the planting area if necessary or prepare a well-draining potting mix and ensure pots have drainage holes in the base.
- Watered at a frequency that allows the soil to dry out between bouts of rainfall or watering (once every two weeks is typically a good guide but adjust the watering frequency according to your climate and rainfall). Give the bougainvillea a good soak after planting to help it establish and mitigate shock.
- Plant it in a pot or container and take it inside if the temperature is as low as 40°F (5°C).
With all the right growing requirements, the bougainvillea has all the resources it needs to recover from transplant shock.
It may take some time for the plant to adjust to its new conditions and bear in mind just because the leaves are dropping it does not necessarily mean the plant is dying but just stressed until it adjusts to its new surroundings.
Is Your Bougainvillea Dying After Heavy Rainfall?
I had a really interesting question from one of my readers, Sue…
“When I bought my house 18 years ago, there was already a large bougainvillea that had been trained to fan out across the wall between me and my neighbor. It’s been growing beautifully until this year. I live in Southern California where it’s been raining almost every week for the past 3 months…This week I noticed the main branch up to the wall (the trunk) has developed bumpy protrusions. I’m pretty sure it’s gotten more water than it’s used to. The Agapanthus next to it is struggling with the rain (the leaves keep turning yellow at the edges.) Do you think the bougainvillea is dying?” –Question from Sue in Southern California
Answer: I found this really interesting, and Southern California is about as good a climate for growing bougainvillea as any in the world. But of course, even in the best climates, you do get some unusual weather which can harm your bougainvillea. The fact that Sue mention her agapanthus (which is another plant that prefers dry conditions is suffering indicates that the heavy rainfall is definitely the culprit here.
Fortunately for Sue, I don’t think the bougainvillaea is dying, but the damp weather has caused Edemas, which are responsible for the bumpy protrusions on the stems. Edemas are not necessarily an indication the plant is dying, but they do indicate that it is under stress. Once the good weather has resumed, the bougainvillea should revive, particularly as it is a well-established, large 18-year-old plant.
I advised Sue to remove any debris that may have accumulated around the base of the plant, as this can contribute to retaining too much moisture.
I think this question just highlights the importance of good soil preparation when we plant our bougainvillea, with added grit being a priority, even in a climate as favorable as Southern California.
Do you have any questions you’d like to ask about your bougainvillea, or stories of bougainvillea woes? If so, please leave a comment below and I’ll reply!
Key Takeaways:
- The most common reasons for bougainvillea dying are overwatering, boggy soil, cold weather, and not enough sun. Bougainvilleas are not cold-hardy and can die from frost. Overwatering and slow-draining soils cause root rot, resulting in a dying bougainvillea.
- Bougainvilleas should be planted in pots or containers and brought indoors over Winter when the temperature is as low as 40°F (5°C).
- Always plant bougainvillea in full sun. If it is in a lot of shade, transplant it to a sunnier area, as this can kill the plant.
- Transplant shock can cause plant stress. Ensure bougainvillea is not watered too often, in full sun, and in well-draining soil amended with sand or grit.
- Bougainvillea prefers dry conditions. Over-watering and slow-draining soils can kill the plant. Only water bougainvillea once the soil has had a chance to dry out between bouts of watering or rainfall.
When I bought my house 18 years ago, there was already a large bougainvillea that had been trained to fan out across the wall between me and my neighbor. It’s been growing beautifully until this year. I live in Southern California where it’s been raining almost every week for the past 3 months. Albert Hammonds “I Never Rains in California” was true until this year. This week I noticed the main branch up to the wall (the trunk) has developed bumpy protrusions. I’m pretty sure it’s gotten more water than it’s used to. The Agapanthus next to it is struggling with the rain (the leaves keep turning yellow at the edges.) Do you think the bougainvillea is dying?
Thanks for the question Sue! -side note thanks also for reminding of the Albert Hammonds song!!-
Thats a very interesting set of circumstances as Southern California is (aside from uncharacteristic downpours) is practically the optimal climate for bougainvillea. So the wet weather has evidently stressed the plant. My first thought when you mention the bumpy protrusions is that they are Edemas (which is caused by overwatering or in your case excessive rain where the cell walls essentially burst).
I see this much more commonly in climates with higher rainfall (and gardeners who are enthusiastic with their watering) as you can imagine. The yellowing on your agapanthas is also a classic sign that the ground is too damp adding weight to this theory.
So, as your bougainvillea is 18 years old it should be quite well established and hopefully resilient. I don’t think it is dying but you should definitely keep a close eye on it. Once it returns to dryer conditions the bougainvillea is likely to recover as edemas are not in of themselves fatal but definitely an indication that the soil is too damp.
If there are any diseased or dying looking branches cut them right back to healthy growth with a sharp, clean pair of pruners. I would also wipe the blades of the pruners with a cloth soaked in disinfectant between each cut as fungal diseases are more common in damp conditions. I don’t think your bougainvilleas has a fungal problem but I think it’s better to be on the safe side given the damp conditions and the fact the plant is not very well.
Of course I’d let the soil dry out before even considering watering again.
With it being so established there isn’t a practical way to add grit to the soil (which would improve drainage and prevent this problem), however I would remove any dead material from around the base such as accumulated dead leaves etc. which can retain moisture at the base of the plant. If the bougainvillea was small enough I’d recommend finding a way to shelter it from the rain (I’ve used a parasol for this purpose before) but again if its a large plant then this is too difficult.
I think once the good weather returns then your bougainvillea should bounce back. I’ve spoken to some growers in Southern France who assure me that bougainvillea are more hardy then they are given credit and cold is the biggest enemy of the bougainvillea. Please let me know if it survives and if you need any further advice, just leaves another comment and I’m happy to help. Thanks Sue! Mark.