I love my Dracaena, but I must admit that it took me a little trial and error to get its care regime just right. Some of my leaves turned brown, but once I fixed that problem, they began to droop a few months later! In this article, I share with you all the lessons I learned from my own experiences of how I pinpointed the cause of the dying plant and the tips, tricks, and hacks I picked up from speaking to expert growers to help you save your dying dracaena…
In my experience, the reason for a dying dracaena is usually overwatering and poor drainage. Dracaena prefers well-draining soil and for the surface of the soil to dry slightly between bouts of watering. If the soil is consistently damp due to overwatering or poor drainage, the leaves turn yellow with a drooping, dying appearance.
Your Dracaena prefers bright, indirect light and can scorch brown in direct sunlight.
Dracaenas drop their leaves as the plant matures, which I can assure you is nothing to worry about; however, they can drop their leaves due to fluctuating temperatures, dry soil, low humidity, low light, or overwatering.
Drooping leaves are usually caused by dry soil, low humidity, or high temperatures due to indoor heating.
To revive my dying dracaena, I recreated the conditions of its native environment by misting the leaves to increase humidity, locating the dracaena in bright, indirect light rather than full sun, water once a week with a good soak, and maintaining a temperature range of 60°F to 83°F (15°C and 28°C).
Keep reading to learn how to pinpoint the problem with your plants and all my tips for saving your dracaena…
Why is My Dracaena Leaves Turning Yellow?
- Symptoms. Leaf tips can turn yellow, or the leaves can turn yellow with a drooping appearance and fall off. Dracaena leaves can also turn black.
- Causes. Overwatering, slow draining, and compacted soils fluoride in tap water.
The reason for yellowing leaves is usually because of overwatering or slow-draining soils. Dracaena needs the surface of the soil to dry between each bout of watering. If the dracaena’s soil stays damp due to overwatering or poor drainage, the leaves turn yellow, droop, and eventually fall off.
To save our dracaena, I think it is important that we understand how they grow in the wild so that we can mimic these conditions indoors…
Most dracaena species originate from tropical Africa in countries such as Ethiopia and Uganda, where they are adapted to growing in well-draining soils and erratic rainfall patterns.
Therefore, dracaena plants do not tolerate the roots being in damp, boggy soil, which restricts root respiration and promotes the conditions for root rot.
If the dracaena roots cannot function properly then they are unable to draw up moisture and nutrients to transport the leaves which results in yellowing dying leaves that fall off.
Pro tip: Another sneaky reason that I discovered through research and conversations with commercial growers is that dracaena leaf tips turn yellow because of fluoride in tap water or due to the fluoride present in perlite.
Perlite is a great soil amendment that I personally use for most houseplants, but this is the first houseplant that I have encountered that is sensitive enough to be affected by trace amounts of fluoride in the mineral.
As I’m sure you have guessed, if dracaena is adversely affected by perlite, then it is also going to be sensitive to chemicals in tap water, which can result in the leaf tips and margins of the leaves turning yellow or brown, depending on the concentration of fluoride in the tap water.
My Tips for Reviving Dracaena with Yellow Leaves
To revive dying dracaena with yellow leaves, we need to recreate the conditions of the dracaena’s natural environment by watering when the surface of the soil is dry, using a well-draining potting mix to improve drainage and reduce the risk of fungal disease, and snipping back any roots with root rot to save the plant.
- Scale back the watering. Dracaena typically only requires watering once a week in the Spring and Summer and reduces watering in Winter to once every 10- 14 days to replicate the typical rainfall cycle and levels of soil moisture in its native environment. I always let the surface of the soil dry before watering again.
- Re-pot the dracaena with a well-draining soil mix (if the soil is notably draining slowly). Dracaena plants require a potting soil mix that emulates the soil drainage conditions of its native environment. I found out from my conversations with commercial growers that they use a mix of 2/3’s potting soil with 1/3 horticultural grit or orchid potting mix to improve the soil structure (which allows the roots to respire more efficiently and mitigates the risk of root rot).
- Avoid firming the potting soil in too hard, as this pushes the oxygen out of the soil and slows drainage. Dracaena prefers aerated, porous soil that allows space for oxygen in the soil (which is important for root respiration) and good drainage.
- Snip any diseased roots back with a sterile pair of pruners. When you repot your dracaena, inspect the roots to see if they are infected with root rot. Roots with root rot are brown, soft, and mushy with a bad smell and rotten appearance, whereas healthy roots feel firm, tend to be lighter in color, and do not have a foul smell. I recommend cutting any diseased roots back to healthy growth with a sharp, sterile pair of pruners.
- Wipe the blades of the pruners with a cloth soaked in disinfectant between each cut to prevent potentially spreading fungal pathogens to otherwise healthy dracaena roots. I advise washing the dracaena’s pot with hot, soapy water before repotting to mitigate the risk of fungal disease pathogens reinfecting the roots and turning the leaves yellow.
- If the tips are yellow, I recommend always avoiding watering dracaena with tap water and not amending the potting mix with perlite. Fluoride and chlorine can be present in tap water at levels that the sensitive dracaena leaves find intolerable. What I do is water my dracaena with rainwater, but if this is difficult to acquire (if you live in an apartment), then use bottled water or distilled water or leave a bowl of tap water out for 24 hours to allow fluoride and chlorine to evaporate before watering to prevent the leaf tips from turning yellow or brown. Perlite contains fluoride, so amend the dracaena’s potting soil with horticultural grit or orchid potting mix to prevent the leaves from turning yellow.
If any of the dracaena’s leaves have fallen off and the remaining leaves are yellow, this indicates that there is extensive root rot, in which saving the plant can be particularly difficult.
However, I have saved dracaena that has been overwatered by scaling back the watering, snipping back any soft, mushy roots to healthy growth, or even going back to the base of the plant and replacing the soil. The dracaena grew normally in the spring, but it took around a year for the plant to look good again.
Why is My Dracaena Dropping Leaves?
- Symptoms. Leaves can often turn yellow or brown before dropping, or the lower leaves can drop. Leaves may also turn black.
- Causes. Dracaena’s drop lower leaves as the plant matures and due to low light. Excessively dry soil, sudden changes in temperature, significant draughts from air conditioning, overwatering, and poor drainage can all cause dracaena leaves to drop.
Usually, dracaenas periodically drop their lower leaves as the plant matures. However, dracaena leaves can also drop because of low light, underwatering, or because of sudden temperature fluctuations. Dracaena leaves turn yellow and fall off due to overwatering.
I often read that Dracaena are known as a houseplant that grows well in low light; however, in my experience, this can be a bit misleading because if the dracaena is in particularly low light, then the plant does not have enough energy to support the leaves, which causes the lower leaves to fall off.
I have also witnessed dracaena drop its leaves due to drought stress caused by not watering often enough or watering the soil too lightly.
Dracaena typically prefers to be watered once a week with a generous soak.
If the plant is watered too lightly, only the top inch or so of the soil becomes moist, and the water does not infiltrate the soil to reach the roots where it is actually required, causing the leaves to fall off.
The dracaena’s leaves are turning yellow and falling off; this indicates root rot due to overwatering or slow-draining soils.
Dracaena needs the soil’s surface to dry between each bout of watering. If the soil is consistently damp or due to overwatering or poor drainage, the leaves turn yellow and fall off with a dying appearance.
From my research, the preferred temperature range of dracaena is 60°F to 83°F (15°C and 28°C), so about room temperature. My dracaena has tolerated temperatures outside its preferred range, if only temporarily. However, I find that if the temperature suddenly fluctuates, this can cause dracaena stress, which results in the leaves falling off.
I had problems with dropping leaves in the Winter when my dracaena was too near my indoor heating. Equally, I have had problems when my dracaena was too near my front door and got a cold blast of air every time I went outside. (It is difficult to find that happy medium, right?)
My Tip for Saving a Dracaena with Leaves Dropping Off
- Dracaena leaves drop off regardless as the plant matures, so don’t worry about it. As the plant grows, it directs more energy to grow new leaves at the top of it, as these leaves are more likely to receive more light. This means fewer resources (nutrients, water, light) are directed at the lower leaves, which fall off. This is a completely normal process, and I can assure you it does not mean your dracaena is dying.
- Locate dracaena in bright, indirect light to prevent leaves from falling off. If many leaves are dropping off at the bottom of the plant despite the plant not necessarily being a mature specimen of a dracaena, then I have observed that low light is often the culprit. Low light means less photosynthesis and less energy for the plant, so it drops its lower leaves as it prioritizes leaves higher up the plant, which are more likely to receive light. Move the dracaena to a brighter spot so that the plant has more energy to prevent it from dropping its leaves. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves brown.
- Water dracaena once a week with a generous soak. Water the dracaena so that excess water trickles from the drainage holes in the pot’s base. This ensures that you have watered sufficiently so that water has infiltrated the soil and reached the roots where it is required. From my experimenting to establish the optimal watering frequency for dracaena, I found watering once a week in Spring and Summer whilst the plant is in active growth and watering every 10-14 days in fall and Winter when the plant is dormant is best.
- Mist the dracaena’s leaves every few days. Misting the leaves creates a humid microclimate that emulates the conditions of the dracaena’s native environment, which reduces stress on the plant and can help prevent the leaves from falling off, particularly if the cause is drought stress. I have to mist my dracaena leaves every day in Winter if I’m using indoor heating to counteract the dry air.
- Keep dracaena plants in a location with a temperature range of 60°F to 83°F (15°C and 28°C). Fortunately, this temperature range is typical of most houses. However, it is important to find a spot in the house away from any sources of heat, draughty areas (from open doors, etc.), or window sills, which can be much cooler than the rest of the house in Winter.
- Ensure the dracaena soil drains efficiently and that it is planted in a pot with drainage holes in the base. If water cannot escape from the bottom of the pot, the soil becomes saturated which promotes the conditions for root rot, resulting in leaves that turn yellow or brown, with a drooping appearance before dropping off. Empty saucers and trays of excess water after watering to ensure good drainage.
- If the dracaena leaves turn yellow and drop off, root rot may be the problem. In this case, scale back the watering, replace the soil with a well-draining soil mix, and cut back any diseased roots (read the information at the start of this article under the first 2 subheadings for more detail).
Suppose the cause of the leaves dropping off is low light, dry soil, or low humidity. If the conditions are adjusted to be more favorable for the dracaena, it should recover relatively easily in the following weeks.
In my experience, if the cause of the dropping leaves is low light, dry soil, or low humidity, the dracaena recovers fairly easily once you improve the conditions, although you may have to wait until spring for the leaves to grow back.
If the leaves are turning yellow and falling off, then root rot is the likely cause, in which case it can be difficult to save the dracaena, particularly if the root rot is substantial.
Why are The Leaves Turning Brown?
- Symptoms. Leaves can turn brown at the tips or brown and yellow streaks with a drooping appearance. Leaves can also turn black due to overwatering.
- Causes. Low humidity, cold temperatures, dry soil, overwatering, and too much direct sunlight. Fluoride in tap water turns dracaena leaf tips brown.
Usually, the reasons for brown leaves is because of too much direct sunlight, low humidity, and dry soil. Dracaena are tropical plants that grow in humid climates with moist soil and are protected from direct sunlight. If the dracaena is in full sun or the soil dries out completely, the dracaena leaves turn brown and can fall off.
If, specifically, the dracaena leaf tips are turning brown, then from my observations, this indicates that there is too much fluoride in the tap water for the dracaena to tolerate or our humidity is too low.
Dracaena are tropical plants that do not tolerate draughts or air currents in the house, which can turn the leaf tips and margins brown.
If the soil is too dry due to not watering often enough or watering too lightly, then the dracaena’s leaves turn brown and fall off.
The dracaenas preferred temperature range is 60°F to 83°F (15°C and 28°C).
If the temperature is excessively hot or cold, then this can also contribute to the leaves turning brown.
Excessive heat from indoor heating dries the potting soil out much quicker, contributing to the drought stress that is responsible for turning the leaves brown.
Too much moisture around the roots due to overwatering and slow draining, compacted soils can also turn the dracaena’s leaves yellow and brown with a drooping, dying appearance.
My Tips for Fixing Dracaena with Brown Leaves
- Always water dracaena with a generous soak so that the soil is evenly moist to prevent drought stress from turning the leaves brown. This ensures that the water has infiltrated the soil to reach the roots where it is required.
- Water dracaena once a week during Spring and Summer and every 10-14 days to avoid drought stress turning the leaves brown. This watering cycle replicates the typical cycle of rainfall and levels of soil moisture to which the dracaena is adapted in its native environment.
- If the soil has baked hard due to drought, then I submerge the dracaena’s root ball in a basin for 10 minutes. Sometimes, the potting soil can become hydrophobic (repels water) if it has dried out completely, so my best tip to re-hydrate the soil and the dracaena effectively is by soaking the root ball, which allows the water to absorb properly helps change the structure of the soil so that water should infiltrate more easily, the next time you water the in the following 7 days.
- Mist the leaves as every day. If low humidity is the cause of the leaves turning brown, it is important to mist the leaves as often as every day to counteract dry air. Misting the leaves creates a humid microclimate that emulates the tropical climate of the dracaena’s native environment to prevent brown leaf tips and margins from developing.
- Keep the dracaena away from cold draughts and air currents from air conditioning or forced air. Air currents -whether they are hot or cold- tend to reduce humidity and dry the dracaena out. Dracaena can tolerate some airflow without the leaves turning brown (particularly if they’re regularly misted), but keep them out of any direct air currents whilst the plant revives.
- Maintain a temperature range of 60°F to 83°F (15°C and 28°C) and avoid temperature fluctuations. To avoid temperature fluctuations (that can dry out the potting soil too quickly) avoid placing the dracaena directly next to any source of indoor heat, preferably on the other side of the room, and avoid cold draughty areas near open doors or on cold window sills.
- If your dracaena leaf tips are turning brown, water the plant with rainwater, bottled water, or distilled water rather than tap water. Fluoride can be responsible for the leaf tips turning brown due to the dracaena’s sensitivity to chemicals so it is often necessary to avoid tap water. However, if you leave a bowl of tap water out to stand for 24 hours, then the chemicals (fluoride and chlorine) evaporate, and it should be safe to water your dracaena.
- To restore the dracaena’s appearance, trim the brown leaf tips. Once the leaf tips have turned brown they do not turn green again. I trim the leaf tips back with a pair of scissors to help revive the plant’s appearance. If the humidity increases and the dracaena has enough water, the plant should continue growing, and the leaf tips should stay green rather than turn brown.
- Keep the dracaena in an area of bright, indirect light (avoid full sun). Dracaena typically grows under a canopy, out of direct sunlight, and can burn due to too much sun. A bright room is best for growing dracaena as it has enough light and therefore, energy to grow yet avoids the leaves burning and turning brown.
- If you are watering the dracaena once a week and the leaves are still turning brown, I would check the drainage of the pot or the soil. Watering the optimal amount should be in conjunction with good drainage conditions. The soil should retain moisture yet drain efficiently. If the soil is draining too slowly, it may be too compacted. Replace the soil with my favorite potting mix of 2/3’s normal potting soil and 1/3 horticultural grit or orchid potting mix to improve the soil’s structure.
- Ensure the dracaena is planted in a pot with drainage holes in the base and empty saucers or trays underneath the pot regularly to prevent excess water pooling at the pot’s base, which keeps the soil saturated rather than well draining.
If the leaves are turning brown due to low humidity and dry soil, the dracaena should recover in the following weeks when the conditions are adjusted to be more favorable.
I always wait until I can see new growth on your dracaena and then trim back any brown leaves to improve their appearance, as once the leaves turn brown, they do not turn green again.
Why are the Leaves Drooping?
- Symptoms. Dracaena leaves drooping, possibly turning brown or yellow.
- Causes. Not watering often enough, watering too lightly, and low humidity are the most common causes of drooping leaves. Overwatering can also cause drooping leaves.
The most common reasons for dracaena leaves drooping is because of dry soil, low humidity, and high temperatures.
Dracaena are native to tropical climates and grow in high humidity, moderate rainfall, and mild temperatures. If the leaves of dracaena are drooping, this indicates the humidity is too low, and the roots do not have enough access to moisture.
Drooping leaves are what I regard as early warning signs that the conditions are not to the dracaena’s preference.
If the conditions continue to be unfavorable, then the dracaena leaves turn brown and fall off or perhaps turn yellow (yellowing and drooping leaves indicate overwatering).
Whilst dracaena requires moist soil, it also has to be well draining as the dracaena roots do not tolerate being in saturated soil.
If the soil is too damp or compacted, then this can exclude oxygen from the soil and prevent root respiration.
If the dracaena’s roots cannot respire, then they cannot uptake moisture or nutrients from the soil, which causes drooping leaves that eventually turn yellow or brown.
If the dracaena is in low light, then the leaves have less energy, which can cause a drooping appearance.
How I Revive Drooping Leaves
I revived my dracaena with drooping leaves due to drought stress by giving the soil a generous soak, misting the leaves to increase the humidity, and locating the dracaena’s pot away from any source of indoor heat, which can cause the soil to dry too quickly in a temperature range of 60°F to 83°F (15°C to 28°C).
- Water dracaenas with drooping leaves with a generous soak every 7 days. Always thoroughly water the dracaenas so excess water trickles from the pot’s base. This ensures that the soil is evenly moist so that the dracaena’s roots can access the moisture it requires.
- Mist the drooping leaves every day. Misting the leaves helps to create a humid micro-climate that emulates the humid conditions of the dracaena’s native environment. This helps to counteract dry air that saps moisture from the dracaena leaves, which causes them to droop.
- Keep the dracaena in a temperature range between 60°F to 83°F (15°C and 28°C) and avoid sudden fluctuations in temperature. Draughty areas of the house from open doors or windows or air currents from air conditioning, forced air, and indoor heating can be responsible for the temperature changing suddenly and causing the leaves to droop.
- Locate the dracaena in an area of brighter light (but avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves). Bright, indirect sunlight should give the dracaena the energy and resources to grow and revive the drooping of the leaves.
- Avoid overwatering dracaena and ensure the soil is well draining, and the pot has drainage holes in the base. Typically, watering once a week is optimal for a dracaena, but this should be done in conjunction with the right drainage conditions.
- Empty saucers, trays, and decorative outer pots of excess water after watering to ensure healthy roots. Suppose the potting soil feels damp after a week. In that case, I recommend replacing or amending the potting soil with 2/3’s potting soil and 1/3 horticultural grit or orchid potting mix to improve the soil structure and drainage conditions. If the soil is still boggy or saturated (rather than evenly moist) a week after watering, this promotes root rot conditions (which causes the leaves to droop, turn yellow, and drop off).
Pro tip: If your dracaena is persistent drooping, then my best trick is to move it to my bathroom as I find my dracaena loves the higher levels of humidity, and the filtered light through the frosted glass creates the optimal conditions. Since it’s been in the bathroom, the plant looks much more healthy.
Once the conditions are adjusted to be more favorable, a dracaena with drooping leaves usually recovers in the following days, particularly if the drooping leaves are due to dry soil and drought stress.
Key Takeaways:
- Usually, the reasons for a dying dracaena are overwatering and poor drainage. Dracaena plants need good drainage and do not tolerate consistently damp soil or boggy soil. If the soil is too damp, the dracaena leaves turn yellow with a drooping and dying appearance due to root rot.
- Dracaena leaves turn brown because of too much direct sunlight, dry soil, and low humidity. Dracaena are tropical plants that prefer to grow in bright, indirect light with regular misting to increase humidity and watered every week. If the soil dries out completely, the leaves droop and turn brown.
- Dracaena leaf tips turn brown because of low humidity due to air conditioning or indoor heating. Dracaena are tropical plants that prefer regular misting to maintain around 40% humidity. Dracaena is very sensitive to fluoride in tap water, which also causes the leaf tips to turn brown.
- The reason for dracaena leaves drooping is usually because of dry soil, low humidity, and high temperatures. Dracaena should be watered once a week with a generous soak so that the soil is evenly moist. low humidity saps moisture from the leaves, and if the temperature is too high, this can dry out the soil too quickly, which causes the leaves to droop.
- To revive a dying dracaena, replicate the conditions of its native environment by increasing the humidity with regular misting and water once a week and locate the dracaena in an area of bright indirect light. Trim back any brown leaves to stimulate new growth. Ensure good drainage to avoid the leaves turning yellow and drooping off due to root rot.